Hi Monsters!

I have a Ducati Monster 796, 2013 Anniversary edition

I had a problem with the battery losing charge, nothing new here and I kept it for as long as I could but when I spent more time run-start the engine than not I realized it is time to do something about it. I bought new battery, the same model I had in the bike before and set some time aside to replace it (thank you for making it so impractical Ducati )

When I got the battery out I noticed it had bulges in it, so it definitely was time and frankly that worries me a bit. I charged the new battery over night and then plugged it in, connected the terminals and put the gas tank back on. When I then turned the key absolutely nothing happened. No lights, no servo doing its initial turning...simply dead!

Could this be the work of a immobilizer (shouldn't it at least show lights come on though) or something else. I know the battery is properly connected and it's only been two days since I gave it full charge so I find it hard to believe it has been drained already (but I will charge the battery again and try).

What should I try next, please advise

I looked at the wiring diagram in Italian, because Ducati USA doesn't have one online... . It appears there are three main fuses. One is for the charging system, and two are in the feeds for the ecu. I'm betting one, or both, of the two that go to the ecu are blown.

Unfortunately the diagram doesn't show the location, so I have no clue where you might find them. Typically these have been located close to the battery.

Good luck.

Awesome, I'll look at that right away, makes a lot of sense. i just need to figure out where they are and how to test them. Is it the same type of fueses you'd find on a car or am I looking at something peculiar?

Update: I found this: https://www.manualowl.com/am/Ducati/2012-Monster%20796/Manual/10324?page=121 which I believe will be helpful

They're pretty large, but they do resemble blade type fuses, or at least the ones they used to use did. You can test them with a voltmeter with the key on, or remove them and test with an ohm meter.
One is 25 amp, and two are 30.

When you disconnected/reconnected the battery, which terminal did you connect first?

I connected red (minus) first, did not get a spark or anything. But I did have a incident where the battery was turned the wrong way round so the terminals where swapped for a bit. This had the little servo engine to the top right of the battery run with a low vibration until I figured out the mistake.

The fuses are all fine but the bike is really dead. I've started charging the battery again now hoping it is just that the battery somehow has gotten drained over the last week. If not, then I'm really out of ideas

Quote from: kanzie on March 29, 2021, 07:49:50 AM
I connected red (minus) first, did not get a spark or anything. But I did have a incident where the battery was turned the wrong way round so the terminals where swapped for a bit. This had the little servo engine to the top right of the battery run with a low vibration until I figured out the mistake.

The fuses are all fine but the bike is really dead. I've started charging the battery again now hoping it is just that the battery somehow has gotten drained over the last week. If not, then I'm really out of ideas

Red is positive...+. Black is negative...-.

I hate to say this, but when the PO of my SBK connected the battery backwards, it fried the ecu. That bike was set up with a track harness with no fuses so it was completely unprotected.

Check your battery connections. You'll need a voltmeter to do much more.

Then I mistyped, I followed the right order when connecting them. But I did get it reversed the first time around and that sucks but I doubt the ECU would get fried  for that. You’re giving me nightmares here 

So with a voltmeter, what do I check next? Battery charge level and then trace power to the ignition or?

first check all the fuses, easy first.  Momentary reversed polarity can kill an ECU. 

Checked the fuses already, they are all good. Would a fried ecu mean that it is absolutely dead when turning the key? How do I confirm  if we ecu is busted?

Get a voltmeter and check battery voltage at the two fuses that feed the ecu. If power on both sides of the fuses, I'm afraid you might have damaged the ecu. I'm not sure how to test one.

Quote from: ducpainter on March 29, 2021, 01:45:15 PM
Get a voltmeter and check battery voltage at the two fuses that feed the ecu. If power on both sides of the fuses, I'm afraid you might have damaged the ecu. I'm not sure how to test one.

Diagnostic test at a dealer?

Quote from: stopintime on March 29, 2021, 02:14:23 PM
Diagnostic test at a dealer?

Not a bad idea.

Quote from: ducpainter on March 29, 2021, 01:45:15 PM
Get a voltmeter and check battery voltage at the two fuses that feed the ecu. If power on both sides of the fuses, I'm afraid you might have damaged the ecu. I'm not sure how to test one.

Other than the smell of burnt electronic parts there is no field test for an ECU.  Rule out every thing else, then substitute a known good ECU, therefore,

Quote from: stopintime on March 29, 2021, 02:14:23 PM
Diagnostic test at a dealer?

is a good idea.

Never had any smell of burned electronics though but that’s not a dead give away. I now charged the battery until full and checked at the terminals, it is proper 12V. Both connectors per terminal is properly attached and I got the order right according to pictures of other monsters battery placements.

Turn the key And nothing happens, not a click, a blip or any sign of life at all. Might as well turn the key without a battery at all and have the same effect.

A dealer is one hour away and I don’t have a trailer so before I go about renting one and no an appointment (next available time 20th April) I prefer to have ruled out any and all stupid mistakes.

I’ll try to figure out how to mature at the fuse box, any other obvious thing I can do?