Is there another option for low rpm stalling?

bump up the idle a bit and/or get your bike re-mapped.

I ran a Nichols 9 oz. on my 04-S4R.  I didn't notice much difference really. Yea, it revved fast, but it revved fast stock.

Idle may have to be turned up some though as someone else said earlier.

I've wondered if it's worth it on a S4RS/T. I've heard the s4rs/t cranks are heavier than on a 999 to begin with.

LA

I have the Nichols on my 04 s4r. Did it with an engine build so I can't tell you the difference alone but I never stall low speed.

lighter flywheel will give you more hp, less torque.  Generally they help you on the higher end, and hurt you in the lower end.  It will rev up quicker, the lighter flywheel results more engine braking

My personal experience with them:   I like only for one reason... If you find that the flicking of the throttle (or gas pedal with a car) for rev matching is not quite quick enough, then I like them... otherwise I find them not worth the money.   just my $0.02

Quote from: Spicoli on October 08, 2008, 02:26:25 PM
lighter flywheel will give you more hp, less torque.

Wait.... What?  Really?

I always suspected a LF would let you deliver more HP to the wheel (obviously no difference at the crank), but less torque?  How?

Quote from: Spicoli on October 08, 2008, 02:26:25 PM
lighter flywheel will give you more hp

How?

sorry... at the wheel when talking about hp and torque.. not at the crank.

How hard is it to install?


edit* http://www.nicholsmfg.com/flywheel-inst.html
found instructions

thanks me!

Less engine breaking for the record, I've ridden with one for quite awhile now... I have an M620 w/ adjustable throttle lever which prevents me from stalling it...

Quicker rev-up happens

Same HP and Torque I believe, lol..

More flickability with less gyro force in the turns

Quote from: kopfjager on October 08, 2008, 09:20:04 PM
How?

Because rear wheel dynos measure the rate of acceleration of the drum to measure horsepower.

If the engine and wheel accelerate faster it translates to more hp at the wheel.

Light wheels will increase the reading at the rear wheel also.

I had the stocker on my 620 milled down to about a pound and a half and I love the effect.  It's been discussed before that this mod really has a more noticeable effect on smaller displacement engines.  More flickable, quicker throttle response, and easier rev matching.  As for engine breaking, I think that the argument in this thread is based on the actual definition versus the perceived effect.  In any occasion... I like it better with the lightened flywheel. 

One of the downsides is that less weight in the flywheel will accentuate any inherrent vibratons or pulses that the engine may have.  Inconsistencies that the heavier flywheel would have otherwise compensated for.  The thing is... it's not the lightened flywheel that causes more vibes.  The idea is that if you experience more vibes after the lightened flywheel install, you should go after the actual problem that is causing the vibes.  Low RPM stalling is so easy to fix if it occurs that I didn't really even want to mention it.

Next to gearing changes and openieng the airbox, I think this is one of the best mods that can be done to a small displacement engine.

Best mod I have done to my bike (M1000).  Engine is more responsive.  Easier for smooth down shifting and lifts the front wheel easier!  Engine feels more powerful.  It stalls easier when cold but thats about it.  I had to have my idle speed slightly increased (back to 1,100 RPM) when I installed the flywheel.

Quote from: ducpainter on October 09, 2008, 06:16:01 AM
Because rear wheel dynos measure the rate of acceleration of the drum to measure horsepower.

If the engine and wheel accelerate faster it translates to more hp at the wheel.

Light wheels will increase the reading at the rear wheel also.

But not at the crank, correct?

The crank is before the flywheel, so no affect to actual HP, just how it gets put down on the ground (the useful kind of HP)