Here is a pic:

After doing my best to do it the right way, I let anger get the best of me. I tried to drill on either side of the EZOUT so I could get a grip on it, but I quickly realized that wasn't the thing to do.

I think a carbide cutter could eat through that ezout and cheap bolt that ducati used, and a time cert could fix it.



And here is after I was able to TIG a small rod onto the end of the easy out and remove the rest of it:


I'm going to head over to a buddies tomorrow and use a Mill and see if I can't unF*$K the cover.

And thanks to this situation, I'm now going to buy myself a mill for X mas....the BST's can wait.

At the risk of buggering it up a little more.  Using a really small flat ended punch try tapping the stud arouind using one of the holes you drilled in it to get the easyout out.  As you probably know small impacts are usally are more effictive at removing threaded parts.  Did the other bolts you removed have locktite?  If so a heatgun or oven might help a little,  no torch! Otherwise set it up on a mill and machine it out.  Might need to put in helicoil afterward.   Cheap-ass Italian hardware

Quote from: Ducnial on September 20, 2008, 05:59:25 PM
At the risk of buggering it up a little more.  Using a really small flat ended punch try tapping the stud arouind using one of the holes you drilled in it to get the easyout out.  As you probably know small impacts are usally are more effictive at removing threaded parts.  Did the other bolts you removed have locktite?  If so a heatgun or oven might help a little,  no torch! Otherwise set it up on a mill and machine it out.  Might need to put in helicoil afterward.   Cheap-ass Italian hardware

That little nub on the welding rod above is the last piece of the EZ out that was in the bolt.  Loctited they are/were, but like you said I really didn't want to put too much heat into it. 

Going to the mill tomorrow.  And then I'm going shopping for a mill.  I wish I had the space for a bridgeport, but it's too cramped in my 2 car garage as it is.

Yea, if I had a decent Bridgeport a Harding lath and a place to put them both I'd retire and play my "golden years" away.    PS I'm still think'in about the full termi system.  Got to do a little more research on my options plus convince (fool) my wife why I need these.  The real reason, more power  wont fly.

NIce bike! love that color combo too  ever try taking the front fairing off? More balance on the bike.

FIXED the problem

Just waiting for the PC guy to get off his arse, so I can re-assemble the bike.  I finished up fabbing what I could for a customer's exhaust, then turned my attention to the rad and oil cooler.  They are now black. 

I'll have pics up soon.  Contimplating going without rad overflow based upon the coolant I'm going to use (evans NPR-r).  I was also thinking about not putting the fans back on based on the fact I've never ever seen them come on.  Maybe I'll put them back on, and leave them unplugged, that way I can easily test out if they are needed or not, without potentially getting myself in trouble.

Remember, CLEAN is the theme

Quote from: duc996 on September 22, 2008, 10:19:01 PM
NIce bike! love that color combo too  ever try taking the front fairing off? More balance on the bike.

Took your advice, I like it much MUCH better, and it's one less part I need to fuss with modifying. 

Quote from: TAftonomos on September 19, 2008, 08:59:19 AM

Dude - put the oil fill plug back in before you drop something in there!!!!

Dude, the cover is just sitting on there for the pic   But thanks for the concern 

Quote from: TAftonomos on October 04, 2008, 07:37:14 AM
Dude, the cover is just sitting on there for the pic   But thanks for the concern 

As evidenced from the missing screws 

Did you ever get the "after" dyno testing done post-muffler chop?

Quote from: REDUC on October 10, 2008, 05:00:13 PM
Did you ever get the "after" dyno testing done post-muffler chop?

Thats the same as throwing away a 24 pack of beer. a few inches of the end is not going to kill your hp.

Quote from: He Man on October 10, 2008, 09:12:13 PM
Thats the same as throwing away a 24 pack of beer. a few inches of the end is not going to kill your hp.

this response only makes sense after throwing back a 24 pack 

I can say with a LOT of experiance that chopping a pipe on the S4Rs isn't going to do a darn thing to the dyno #'s. 

ALL of the tuning is done with the primary tube size, and the placement/size of the 2-1 collector.  After the collector, you are just bottling up the noise, or making it look pretty.  YES, the TOTAL length of the exhaust combined with how restrictive the cans are CAN have an effect of total torque output, but you would need to do something drastic (no mufflers, straight out the 2-1-2 collector) to really effect the mid range torque.

Whats going to make a difference is the large TB's I've fitted, the squish that has been altered, and the cam timing that has been set.  After the riding season ends, the ECU is going oversees to someone that can tune it (DP or stock) and should come back with some good numbers after it's fitted. 

Last one he tuned was 131 w/termi's and open lid, 136 tuned on the dyno, and still with stock cam timing, stock squish, stock everything else .    I'm shooting for 140ish at the wheel, which should keep me entertained for the next riding season

Taft, so when you set the cam timing and get that DP chip back please share that info with us....

My Rs with the Dp is begging for a little more pep in its step...

OH and you should get a slipper......SOOOOOOOO incredible, but you might have issues with using one AND a lighter flywheel?

Slipper might be in the cards for the trackbike, but unless I find 2 cheap, I don't have 2K to drop on clutches anytime soon