My bike will do the same thing if it hasn't warmed up enough (stall once in awhile).
If I take off while the bike is flashing "LOW" I will get atleast one stall when I let off the throttle (as I am coming to a stop or what not). Once the bike starts showing temp, it is good.

Just part of the fun of owning an air cooled twin 

I'm running the O2 modifier here in ( farking cold) colorful Colorado.  It's still set a bit rich, but I don't ever get these stalls you guys are talking about.  Not when the motor is cold and it's 30* out.  The ecu seems to do a fine job of automating the fast idle.  In my case, maybe it's because it's running a little rich.  After all, before all this, the purpose of a choke was to induce a rich situation so the motor would keep running cold.  The bike just adds fast idle to this. 

the side effect is I do have backfiring on engine braking.  Worse still if the throttle is cracked just a little...  I love it!
Incidentally, if the silencers are in, the backfiring occurs significantly less, not just quieter, less frequently.  Probably the added backpressure. 

Arrow Ti full system here, with K&N filter on stock ecu.  And I plan to leave it that way untill I've gotten more important things, like a functional rear shock.  The stock unit is crap, but the bike has plenty enough power to keep me in trouble.

Back when my bike was bone stock I could hear the backfires on decell, it was jsut harder to hear with the stock mufflers. Now the mufflers have been removed and the udder is open you can hear them much more clearly (i like the sound of them). Makes the bike feel more "racey" for better words, plus I like causing noise 

So I adjusted the manipulator today from the factory spec dot, anti-clockwise about 2 hours.  I don't smell the fuel anymore, and the backfiring isn't near as awe-inspiring, but I suppose it's better this way....

Still, it's really priceless to engine brake as you pass some cager with their cell glued to their ear, and get a fire breathing back-crack where you get to see them jump in their carseat and drop their cell phone...  Priceless!

The bike messenger population here in Chicago is HUGE !
They are supposed to ride in the bike lane, but they usually hang out with the traffic, cause accidents, and think they are untouchable. I do the same thing to them (engine brakeing/decell pop) which always a good time.

Ahh, the joy of scaring our large population of half-wits!!  Priceless

Quote from: ProTeal55 on March 06, 2009, 09:24:28 AM
Try messing with your air bleed screws (i believe)...

I tried to search for any info on the air bleed screws but couldn't find anything.  Can you elaborate a little on this?  Do I need any special tools?

Are most of your guys starting at "full rich" (the dot) and working backwards?  I'm thinking of doing the reversal as my surge problem only happens around 3K RPM.

Thoughts on one way or the other?

Thats what I did on my bike.
I started at the dot, and then when I get some more miles on it will start turning it down to see what happenes.
I didnt get much riding time after I put the FATDUC on due to winter
I think each bike is different, as its a matter of the setup on the bike, where you live, temp that day, etc..

I stared at the dot, then turned a sixth of a turn anti clockwise.  The bike runs leaner now, but it doesn't have such a wonderful backfire as it did when I was dumping unburnts into the headers.  The mileage has improved significantly however. 

I was dealing with this surging at 3K also, and it was taken care of at the dot, so were I you, I'd spend all your moneys on me!!!  I know that's not helpful, but I like Ducatis, and that's pricey I'm finding.  Go with the dot, then adjust from there.

been riding alittle leaner than the dot for a few months, still smells gassy. Turned it all the way to lean, will post again after a few rides.

bump:

you never got back!

Is nobody trying this thing out anymore?