Ducatisti,
Tried the usual avenues, no luck.
I need complete set of brushes for the DC starter motor on my 900 2v motor. If anyknow has some or knows of a stockist, please advice. Cheers!

- Chris

ps, prefer new, used set in there failed.

Quote from: sydmonster on April 16, 2009, 09:42:50 PM
Ducatisti,
Tried the usual avenues, no luck.
I need complete set of brushes for the DC starter motor on my 900 2v motor. If anyknow has some or knows of a stockist, please advice. Cheers!

- Chris

ps, prefer new, used set in there failed.

Auto Electrician?

Any power tool repair mob should have just about any brush you could poke a stick at.
If all else fails try this mob, one of their sales types ay be able to point you in the right direction.

http://www.morgancarbon.com.au/electrical_carbon.htm

Had problems with the starter on the M750, and while doing some research came across this mob. Might help?? 


http://www.stockers.com/NEWSS13.htm


Dont quote me but I think this Nippon Denso starter is ahred by some Japanese bikes, possibly Kawasaki in particular.   

From the OEM parts replacement thread on TOB:

Quote2000 Kawasaki ZX7 brushes and brush plate will replace the brushes and brush plate on a 2002 Monster 620 starter. Both parts should be $70 (ish) if you only paid $35, you dont have all the parts.

Give Ron (or Craig) a call and see if they can get em...

Failing that, there's an auto electrician a few blocks away from Flywheels that a friend used to get her Guzzi starter rebuilt, I'm pretty sure he chose the closest brush size he had in stock and machined it to size... I think he's the corner of Maddox and Belmont St in Alexandria - lemme know if you want me to ride past to remind myself of the name...

big

Quote from: bigiain on April 17, 2009, 12:18:28 AMFailing that, there's an auto electrician a few blocks away from Flywheels that a friend used to get her Guzzi starter rebuilt, I'm pretty sure he chose the closest brush size he had in stock and machined it to size... I think he's the corner of Maddox and Belmont St in Alexandria - lemme know if you want me to ride past to remind myself of the name...

I was in the area this afternoon, so I swung by to get their details:

Hy-Beam Auto Electrics
286 Belmont St (cr Maddox St)
Alexandria
9557 2980

big

Thanks gang, have placed and order for an original set. But in the mean time (its a Jap part) I will visit the auto sparky as per Bigs post. - Chris

ps, push starting these things sucks...

Quote from: brimo on April 16, 2009, 11:10:21 PM
Any power tool repair mob should have just about any brush you could poke a stick at.
If all else fails try this mob, one of their sales types ay be able to point you in the right direction.

http://www.morgancarbon.com.au/electrical_carbon.htm

They are good but Carbone Lorane are even better!

They are located at Brighton Le Sands.

It will cost you around $20 a brush and they have alot of different compounds to suit.

Rob (yea I'm still here!)

Hey gang,

Just following up on this thread. Fixed it myself. (applies to my 900cc 2v belt drive SS engine)

1. Race stand the bike and remove LEFT hand side foot hangers/exhaust/side stand etc
2. Dump oil & disconnect battery
3. Remove alterantor side engine cover & slave cylinder & clutch rod
4. Disconnect cables to starter motor
5.. Undo bolts and remover starter motor, located underneath horizontal cylinder. x2 internal bolts x1 external, carefull with gasket that sits in between engine case & starter motor.if it tears you need to buy new one.
6. Pull starter apart, after removing pinion gear.
7. I found that the failure was due to a stuck brush not making contact and a small ark in the rotators com (the bits the brush rub against.)
8. Cleaned it all, light sand paper & groove clean of commutator on the rotor and applied a lubricant on the sliding part of the bursh holders. Jaycar/Dicksmith sell a Electrical Cleaner & lubricant in one. Sprayed the whole thing clean, inside and out.
9. Hand Polished magnet case for bling factor.
10. Rebuilt and tested starter on a spare battery, all good!! Bed in/run in brushes by runnning it for 30 second intervals.
11. Reinstalled back on bike, all fixed!

- Chris

Quote from: sydmonster on April 29, 2009, 05:17:36 PM
8. Cleaned it all, light sand paper & groove clean of commutator on the rotor and applied a lubricant on the sliding part of the bursh holders. Jaycar/Dicksmith sell a Electrical Cleaner & lubricant in one. Sprayed the whole thing clean, inside and out.

All okay apart from lubing up the brushes, any lube in there is gonna hold all the carbon that gets ground off the brush by the commutator.
You may end up with your old problem with a sticking brush again cos of this.

Also any lube on the commutator will cause carbon to be trapped between the segments, then you'll have real problems.

Thanks Brimo, this is a dry lube, its air spun powdered ultra-fine graphite.

*edit - Actually, should clear that up. Its graphite on the slide and the dry film lube (spays on wet and dries out to a film) on the spring mech. None of it is on the comm or the brushes.

you can do it without pullling the starter out.  can lead to fits of screaming anger when the brushes just don't want to go in, but with patience it's fairly easy.  mainly because i'm too lazy to pull the alternator cover.

Quote from: brad black on April 30, 2009, 05:48:40 AM
you can do it without pullling the starter out.  can lead to fits of screaming anger when the brushes just don't want to go in, but with patience it's fairly easy.  mainly because i'm too lazy to pull the alternator cover.

+1,

I also take the chance to dump/change oil, check alternator nut, check timing pickups (always fine though) and hate having to work around the oil cooler lines. So if I do this, I do a few other things as well.There's a few benefit checks to be had.
But youre right Brad, pulling that cover off becomes and art after a while.  - Chris