Does anyone have any FHE with either of these methods for their pressure plates? I have a red one that I want gold. I'd buy a new one but it doesn't seem like anyone makes a gold pressure plate for the DP slipper clutch. Pros and cons of either method?
Thanks in advance!

I had the pressure plate on my Surflex slipper PC, no issues and still looks new. The only things you need to do is make sure they don't PC the side that faces the motor and you need to remove the baring.

Nice. Does the bearing just slide out?
Thanks for the info.

Quote from: damianS4RS on April 20, 2009, 11:50:32 AM
Nice. Does the bearing just slide out?
Thanks for the info.

No. 

You can either press it out using a shop press, or drift it out using a piece of wood (or a seal driver -- I got a set from Harbor Freight) and a hammer. 

If you have to beat hard on it with a press, you might want to replace it.  They only cost about $10.

P.S. I put three coats of Rustoleum on mine and >1 year later it looks fine.

P.P.S. If you drive a new bearing in, distribute the driver over both races (don't put all the force on the inner race).

I powdercoated my stock plate gloss black.
Looks pretty nifty with the contrast of the SS springs..

I've painted several with urethane and they hold up great.

Quote from: MonsterMan1036 on April 20, 2009, 08:13:00 AM
The only things you need to do is make sure they don't PC the side that faces the motor..

May I ask why this is ?

Quote from: ProTeal55 on April 21, 2009, 08:39:00 AM
May I ask why this is ?

PC will interfere with the last friction/metal plate (depending on setup) and end up transferring to said plate as well as all over the rest of the clutch pack... Best to skip that part.

I spray painted mine about a year ago and it looks fine...

anodizing is the go..
but! if its already anodized red, the color will have to be striped before it can be re-anodized gold. Thats not a problem, but you will lose some size on the part (should be about .002" max). Which is also not a problem except in the bearing bore.  A good anodizer will keep the loss to a minimum so it shouldn't be a drama.
I did mine from red to gold and its fine, the bearing still fits ok, tho I did use some loctite when refitting..  just in case...

my black faded to purple on my Speedy moto and they warrantied it, and it was stripped black and then reanodized gold.

Cool. So far I can PC or spray paint it, but only the outside. Anodize it but have to have it stripped first.
Thanks for everyone's input, I probably would have messed it up with out you guys. 

Quote from: hypurone on April 21, 2009, 09:24:16 AM
PC will interfere with the last friction/metal plate (depending on setup) and end up transferring to said plate as well as all over the rest of the clutch pack... Best to skip that part.

Looks like I have some sanding/stripping to do 

The stock PP would look terrible anodized IMHO.  It's a cast piece, and as such has a lot of irregularities.  Better to PC it. 

Quote from: TAftonomos on April 22, 2009, 11:41:23 AM
The stock PP would look terrible anodized IMHO.  It's a cast piece, and as such has a lot of irregularities.  Better to PC it. 

I P.Coated mine with some super wicked gloss black and it turned out great (will post pic soon)...