So, it was the battery. Threw it on the charger, at the store around the corner, put it in, starts first pop....

Now, i'm still not sure why this was the case as a booster pack didn't even fix the problem. I'm just going to put it down to a weird Ducati thing. The motorbike store doesn't even know why, possibly the amount of power required to crank the twin.  (But if you live in the Shire please support NRP motorcycles, it appears that motorbikes are one of the first things to suffer in a recession, and unfortunately a good local fix-it shop is feeling the brunt of it)

Anywho, thanks for the help guys. I am very grateful that it wasn't the ECU.

The bike could possibly be smarter than i am.....

One thing may be that if you had the booster pack hooked directly on to the battery terminals and there was a poor joint between the battery and the battery leads that would explain it. It would then explain why, when the new battery went in and the leads were disconnected and reconnected, away it went. I would think a booster pack designed to crank over a car would have more than enough to crank a bike engine.
Was the booster pack charged?

Good news! Glad is was simplest (and cheapest) of things to fix
It sounded like this was the problem to me. Cheers  [moto]  ducsport

cool hugh glad we could help

good to hear.

I will email you my bill.

thank you in advance for prompt payment.

Can i pay you in love dollars? 

No, the connection was as solid as anything. The booster pack was sitting at 100%, and i tried it on a couple of occasions.  Maybe it just comes down to Amps?? Electricians, and i'm only going on taser knowledge here, as you connect more and more things together don't the amps drop and the volts stay the same??

hugh my boy you are starting to learn...its called cold cranking amps.you can hook any thing on but if the amps arent high enough
aspecially on cold days (resistance increases) internally on a battery and it just isnt enough ooomph to turnover.my bike in particular
suffers from this.i use a superdooper battery tender to keep my battery fully charged even though its got higher cold cranking amps
than any other battery.

Pygmy.....I'll guess.....Yuasa?

massive CCA!

the 12b-bs is one bad ass battery....apparently some weight weenies have used the YTZ-7s and it works because of the high CCA's in Yuasa - the thing looks tiny and weighs half a normal battery!

I'm beginning to think that I've been lucky letting my bike sit for a month then having it start first go with no problems??

I'm glad i'm not that much dumber than the bike..... 

I do have a Yuesa battery, but not sure which one. It's an 05', so it could be time for a new one anyway

yes sounds like a good idea maybe i should look at getting a new one too                             

Ah, simple things first...........remember my story 

Quote from: brimo on July 03, 2009, 12:46:51 AM
One thing may be that if you had the booster pack hooked directly on to the battery terminals and there was a poor joint between the battery and the battery leads that would explain it. It would then explain why, when the new battery went in and the leads were disconnected and reconnected, away it went.

i've experienced this sort of thing myself on a couple of occaisions trying to jump start bikes, they just won't go with the fitted battery down, no matter what you do jump wise.  don't really know why.  i often jump direct to the starter these days - hook the leads up to the bike end and positive of the jump battery, then put the negative lead on the jump battery to complete the circuit.  that way you don't load the bike's circuit at all.

batteries are funny things.  i think i've only ever bough one new battery to use in a bike of mine that i wasn't selling.  i've used a few s/h batteries in my own bikes that we've removed at work because they keep going flat, etc.  new battey fixes the problem bike, but then i'd charge the old one and fit it to one of mine and it'd last years.

Quote from: brad black on July 04, 2009, 10:14:40 PM
i've experienced this sort of thing myself on a couple of occaisions trying to jump start bikes, they just won't go with the fitted battery down, no matter what you do jump wise.  don't really know why.  i often jump direct to the starter these days - hook the leads up to the bike end and positive of the jump battery, then put the negative lead on the jump battery to complete the circuit.  that way you don't load the bike's circuit at all.

batteries are funny things.  i think i've only ever bough one new battery to use in a bike of mine that i wasn't selling.  i've used a few s/h batteries in my own bikes that we've removed at work because they keep going flat, etc.  new battey fixes the problem bike, but then i'd charge the old one and fit it to one of mine and it'd last years.

I'm an electrical tech and have had a fair bit (well a lot really..)of experience on low voltage DC systems, poor joints can be a real bastard to find without the right gear, and they tend to only show up when you are trying to pull a heap of current through them (eg starting an engine) so always check, clean and tighten the joints before assuming a battery is cactus.