Well, can't seem to sell the cans off my 696 so I'm ready to hack away and see what sound I can get out of them...

Wondering if anyone has done it with the 696 cans specifically?? I have complete access to welding and machining, so pretty much ready to hack away. Wouldn't mind a run-down on the particulars of the job if someone has delved into it before tho...

I have done about 20 sets of cans on the 696. I also did a how to thread here http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=18040.0

Quote from: ryanracer on March 28, 2010, 05:01:54 PM
I have done about 20 sets of cans on the 696. I also did a how to thread here http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=18040.0

Is there a special trick to drill out the welding spots? All my drills failed so far. Seems to be made out of titanium or some crazy ultra resistant NASA material.

I used a pneumatic die grinder with a high speed steel cutting bit. There is another way to half core them where you don't have to drill those things out. It is just 2 cuts with a band saw and the first section of baffles falls out. PM me cause I don't have time to type the whole instructions out.  How you core them will change the sound quite a bit.

Have you also done this with the M1100 cans?  In terms of loudness, how would you compare them to say the termis without the baffles?  I may have to try this......

You know, I was thinking about this some more.......Why couldn't you simply cut both ends of the exhaust can and rivet / screw them to the ends of the aluminum tube using an exhaust sealant to seal it all up.  You'd still want to keep the cat intact (I suppose) and then the only other issue is fabbing something to pickup the hanger bolts.  Maybe cut around the original weld-nuts and tack them to the inside of the aluminum sleeve?  I'd probably also want to add some exhaust packing to insulate the can somewhat.  This would save weight and possibly eliminate the need for welding (I can't weld!) Thoughts?

Have done one set like that where I cut just behind the hanger bosses and did the whole perf tube and packing job. They sound pretty decent too! It is a little more involved process to do that, but you could just do the complete gut. It may sound a little strange?

Quote from: ryanracer on March 28, 2010, 05:01:54 PM
I have done about 20 sets of cans on the 696. I also did a how to thread here http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=18040.0

Thanks for the link... I did a search in this area of the forum but didn't think to look in the tutorial section

I think I will simply try chopping out the baffle section and drill and screw them back together with some nice stainless hardware. Motocross cans have been built that way for years so it isn't really a new concept. You mention it may sound a little strange in your last post....other than a section of the inner sleeve missing I would think it would be the same in sound as welding it back together.....no?

One thing that concerns me is the possibly discoloration of the outer sleeve from the heat...  

What is everyone's opinion on breaking in a bike with the lesser back pressure of a baffle-less system? My bike has yet to be even ran other than the PDI...

Seeing as you can buy a brand new bike with Termis installed and be covered under warranty, I wouldn't think you need to worry about running a baffleless exhaust.  I believe the Termis are a straight through, cat-less system (even less backpressure).  Of course it does come with the DP ECU which modifies the air / fueling mix. 

Actually, do you risk running the bike lean with fuel injection, or will the ECU compensate?

The 696 has the Siemens ECU with 2 O2 sensors, so I'm not sure if it would automatically adjust to the change in backpressure, but that sure would be nice.  I know for sure the older model ECU's on the pre-2009 monsters would not adjust automatically.

The Siemens computer will compensate for A/F there has been no issues with cored cans especially with the cats still in them.

Here is the half core instructions

I don't have any pictures of the half core process, but it is easy to describe....

1) Cut the back of the can off

2) In the center of the can there are the 4 spot welds. If you look down the baffle the bottom pipe goes all they way through to the first chamber, the top pipe only goes to the second chamber but there is a metal strap that holds the baffle.  The location to make these cuts is about 1/4" away from the spot welds towards the back of the can.  Cut enough to go through the pipe on the bottom and then cut just enough to go through the metal strap. The back half of the baffle will then essentially fall out.

3) Since you didn't cut the can in half a second time, it is much easier to patch weld the two saw cuts and then you simply weld the rear of the can back on.

Quote from: ryanracer on March 29, 2010, 03:17:11 PM
Here is the half core instructions

I don't have any pictures of the half core process, but it is easy to describe....

1) Cut the back of the can off

2) In the center of the can there are the 4 spot welds. If you look down the baffle the bottom pipe goes all they way through to the first chamber, the top pipe only goes to the second chamber but there is a metal strap that holds the baffle.  The location to make these cuts is about 1/4" away from the spot welds towards the back of the can.  Cut enough to go through the pipe on the bottom and then cut just enough to go through the metal strap. The back half of the baffle will then essentially fall out.

3) Since you didn't cut the can in half a second time, it is much easier to patch weld the two saw cuts and then you simply weld the rear of the can back on.

interesting.... I may give this a try to start. How does the half baffle sound?

The half baffle is a deeper tone than the full core job. The full cores are much more "stingy" or sharp like a 2 cycle exhaust.

Gentlemen, I have a problem. Look what I did. And still the baffle wont move  Any ideas?









It seems to me like the only strap that I cut is the one that you can see through the top pipe...