damn...that love affair didn't last very long... 

as for welding, chris, you're not far off, actually.  i had actually toyed with the idea of some sort of layer of jbweld on a couple of the slip fit areas to thicken things up and make it a tighter fit... or perhaps 20 coats of high temp BBQ paint... either way though, even if i get it 100% sealed, there's still going to be shit tons of popping... the problem is deeper than exhaust leaks.

What welding would you need?

I'm not all clearcoat ya' know...

Quote from: RichD on April 16, 2010, 08:37:28 AM
What welding would you need?

I'm not all clearcoat ya' know...

but damn do you do clear coating well   

as for actual welding, there's really only one that i would think of, and that would be the stock header pipe from the horizontal cylinder (the slip joint).  i can't weld the one on the vertical cylinder, or i would never be able to take it off   

Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on April 16, 2010, 09:18:03 AM
as for actual welding, there's really only one that i would think of, and that would be the stock header pipe from the horizontal cylinder (the slip joint)...

So where do you think it is suckin air in?  there?  Or at the heads?

(and who made the header pipes?  OEM? ..?

Quote from: ♣ McKraut ♣ on April 16, 2010, 09:18:03 AM
but damn do you do clear coating well  

-That's just a byproduct of fixing what I crash ...eventually you can get good at anything.  

Quote from: RichD on April 16, 2010, 11:04:17 AM
So where do you think it is suckin air in?  there?  Or at the heads?

(and who made the header pipes?  OEM? ..?

-That's just a byproduct of fixing what I crash ...eventually you can get good at anything.  

well there are really four leaky points: both header pipes at the heads where they bolt on, as well as both slip joints.  if i had to say which was worse i'm sure it would be the slip joints (i would have to check again to see just how bad each is).  but, like the last set of arrows i had, nothing i did made any difference as far as sealing them up.  and the header pipes are OEM.

I wonder about using this stuff for exhaust leaks:
http://www.silkolenestore.com/more.asp?ProdID=204
MotoLiberty sells it from their new Silkolene website.
Sort of a high-temp Parma-Gasket for leaky head gaskets and exhaust pipe slip joints. Kind of expensive, though. Has any one tried it, or anything like it?

pinocchio we have tried that stuff at work except a different brand and it's only a temp fix.


rich i welded my slip joints and it took away alot of the popping i had. still talking to some folks about where the header pipe meets the head. i know there is a gasket up there just not sure if they should be using an older style exhaust donut instead of the gasket they use. usually the donut stlye is used further down where headers would meet your pipe so i am not to sure how they would work up in the hole with the pipe cranked down on it.

There is a "gasket" ring that goes in the head and is crushed to seal by the header when it is tightened on. If you ever did exhaust work and didn't change it, its probably creating part of the ol' problem there.

I had a header leak with a QuatD ExBox exhaust on my Multi 1000DS, and I wasted a lot of time and money trying to have it tuned out with a card on the dyno. When replacing it with a Leo Vince EVO II, I measured the ID of the exhaust port and the OEM gasket at 47mm. The ID of the ExBox header pipe measured 45mm and the OD measured 48mm. No way that could work, I thought, and I took a good look at the gaskets. Sure enough, they showed obvious blow-by sooting, and the outer edge of one was twisted slightly in the direction of the escaping gases. MotoWheels pressured QuatD to send me a couple of headpipe replacements. Took two months for them to make them from scratch. When they arrived, I measured 45mm ID/ 47mm OD - OK, but the headpipe ends weren't ground flush, and the gaskets blew going around the block. I threw that crap in the box and put the Leos back on: excellent fit and finish, no leaks, no pops, tuner ready.

If I learned anything from the experience, it was to check dimensions carefully before fitting a new $1100 pipe, and if they aren't right, ship it back and get one that is.

Weird. My exbox fit up perfectly - Zero leaks. I ditched it because it didn't sound as good as standard open pipes and I wanted megaphones, which I had for awhile.

The point of the ExBox, as I understand it, is to lower the moment of mass for turning and braking. The system still has to pass Euro noise restrictions, although I don't see how mine did. My right ear rang for a year from a 100 mile test ride I did when I first installed the ExBox and forgot my ear plugs - never again!

I think they had a lot more experience fitting the design to Monsters than to Multistradas. Their quality control seems to be generally good with their other products, about on a par with Termignoni, maybe not up to the level of Leo Vince and Zard. Everything they did for me seemed to be one-off from supplying the right system P/N for my app after two miscues through MotoWheels, to getting the headpipes replaced. There was a builder located near their plant that was turning out Multistrada streetfighter custom showbikes with the ExBox installed, but their website disappeared after the Hyper was introduced. I'm probably the only Multi owner in the US that has one. Whoop-ti-frickin'-do....

I see QuatD has a distibutor in Illinois now. That could make dealing with them a lot easier, since there was only one guy at the plant designated to handle English-language customer service/ tech support, according to MotoWheels.

yeah...there are metal "gaskets" at each of the heads... they had a decent amount of carbon buildup on them, so i cleaned it down to the metal and bolted them back on.  they didn't look like they needed to be replaced or anything though.

if i could just weld up both slip joints and basically be done with it, i definitely would. 

If you need them zapped I've got a zapper.   

Let's talk air-cooled Duc motors; what's the main disadvantage/advantage to the 1000 DS motor vs. the 1100 DS?  There's more power and the service interval is less on the 1100 - that much I know.  But is one motor more reliable than the other?  Problem areas for both?

No significant changes.

There are new 1100's that are not DS. If you want the "cool" of a DS, well, you'll be looking for 010's or older, I don't foresee there being many more.

The 1100 and the evo Motor are lighter while making more power. They are truly a superior air cooled motor to yesteryear's engines (sigh). They've got the heads to flow better as they've progressed, but the biggest change was from the 900's to the 1000DS motors.