OOPS 6mm

Is the length of the M5 bolt critical? I couldn't get a good look at the amount of threads on the inside but I am guessing that the bolts I used might have threaded the entire way through. Any problems with that?

It shouldn't matter unless your manifolds are flowed.

Quote from: ducatiz on February 15, 2010, 09:39:13 AM
It shouldn't matter unless your manifolds are flowed.

I'm not sure that I understand what you mean. It is a stock '02 MS4

Quote from: lazylightnin717 on February 15, 2010, 09:53:54 AM
I'm not sure that I understand what you mean. It is a stock '02 MS4

it doesn't matter unless you've done extensive engine modifications.

Good answer. Thanks!

Quote from: Special K on January 26, 2009, 08:25:39 AM
vacuum caps (1/8)

What is meant by "1/8"? Those nipples look like they're 3/8" to 1/2"...

Edit: Used 1/4" and they fit perfectly.

Quote from: iamhybris on October 15, 2009, 03:09:44 PM

I started it up and noticed immediately that it started with less hesitation and was definitely louder!  So COOL!  Power delivery may actually be smoother and the power feels perfectly normal.  All in all, a great $1.89 mod.

Well...I put nipples on at first and noticed a noticeable drop in idle (~900 rpm) and difficulty in starting.  I figured that I had a vacuum leak, so I ditched the nipples and bolted the holes up with the OE washers and RTV.  Still no change in idle.  I ran propane around everything suspect and observed no change.  Grrrrr!

Ideas anyone?     FWIW, I have cored cans and I'm at 5600 miles on a 2004 800ie.  I figure she's do for a trip to the mechanics to fatten up the mixture a wee bit.  Also, I'll be checking valves tonight.  Any help is appreciated. 

You have to adjust the air bypass .  Plugging the holes reduced some air flow.  Same thing on mine.  About 1/8th turn each

Quote from: ducatiz on May 05, 2010, 02:04:14 PM
You have to adjust the air bypass .  Plugging the holes reduced some air flow.  Same thing on mine.  About 1/8th turn each

Thank you! Next question: is this one of the air bypass screws (couldn't find a good diagram) with the red arrow?
I figure that this will bring up the idle but at the cost of a leaner mixture. Yes?

Yes that's it.  It will be covered by a white plastic plug.  You can break the cover or use something to pull it out. 

It won't lean.  The ecu will compensate

There is one on each throttle body

Thank you again! 

I posted this on the other monster forum and thought i would post it over here as well.

First let me apologize for not having pictures showing the removal of the charcoal canister.  I don’t have pictures because I was having issues with the gas tank pulling a vacuum every time I ran the bike so I started taking things apart to figure out where the gas tank vent lines were fouled and causing the vacuum in the gas tank.   
Step 1: remove the left side air deflector that holds the charcoal canister.

Step 2: remove the three bolts that hold on the right side air deflector. 



Step 3: remove the vapor hose that attaches to the throttle body on the right side that is behind the air deflector.



Step 4: remove the barb fitting that is installed in the throttle body and replace with a screw and the copper washer that was on the barb fitting to seal the hole.  I don’t know what size screw to use because I used the leftover screws from the tail chop that I did.



Step 5: remove the vapor hose and barb fitting from the left side and replace with a new bold and the copper washer that came off of the barb fitting.



Step 6: at this point I cut the fuel tank vent hose at the charcoal canister to keep it as long as possible or you can cut it at the top of the tank and use a T fitting and connect the big hose to the smaller hose at the top of the tank and use the smaller hose run to vent the tank to under the bike where it is already ran.

Step 7: install the left side and right side radiator shroud/side panels on the bike and you are done.

So, is  anyone of you look at your spark plug's after you did the modification???

.   Because on a carburated one ...if you take out the PCV system ( the canister) there's less vacuum in the crankcase and the toxic fumes from the "blow-by "of the cylinder cannot be vacuum out of it.

If  you take out the "canister" ,  you take out 4 in Hg of vacuum that the "canister" was doing in the crankcase.  Toxic fumes from the "blow-by" built up in the crankcase and build up pressure in it so all those fumes go back up past the blow-by and return to the combustion chamber ...and there you have it.... spark plugs carbonised by an excess of toxic fumes in combustion chamber.....( so now your must be thinking the carburetor is set on a to rich mixture.... )

I f you do the mod you absolutely need to restore that vacuum by placing a K&N filter at the crankcase vent or the tube that is left there after removing the canister.....


the same principal apply to the airbox don't block the vent!!! no vacuum will be produce...

You know they just don't put those just to make it ugly ...those things have a purpose...