I cannot help but think that air past the bleeds or the butterflies will have similar effect. The air bleeds are just a more finite adjustment.
As always starting with a good foundation and setting the TPS manually with a VM gets you i the right area. I am a firm believer that the bike will let you know what it likes. wt:

secrets?
I have no secrets here ... well none that I can talk about.

My thinking is:
With the butterflies open further at idle, with minimum (or no) air bleed, it will make the off-idle transition less abrupt.

I've no real idea how much air the bleeds let through compared to the butterflies, so my theory may be nonsense.

You mentioned stalling @ idle, Speeddog... My bike still stalls @ idle all the time if I try and blip the throttle while in neutral, even after a few minutes of warm-up...only after I get a few miles behind me is the engine warm enough to not stall...Not to mention that my idle is right around 1000 (low), but I always just attributed that to the DP cams....

I think I could benefit from playing around w/the TPS and double-checking my TB sync...Don't know how tied into the other issue it is, but definitely good to learn,  because although I'm trying to learn as much as I can about diagnosing/fixing 4v desmo engines, I'm still admittedly a Newb...

In my experience with the 4-valvers, idle at 1000 is precarious at best, just like you are finding.

Probably moreso with the DP cams.

If I were you, I'd open the bleeds to get the idle up.
Nice thing about them is they're easy to get at and adjust.
If it makes some other problem, you can wind 'em back in.

My bike is pretty happy idling at 1200 or so, but it's basically stock.

Quote from: Speeddog on May 07, 2008, 07:38:44 PM
My thinking is:
With the butterflies open further at idle, with minimum (or no) air bleed, it will make the off-idle transition less abrupt.

I've no real idea how much air the bleeds let through compared to the butterflies, so my theory may be nonsense.

this makes a lot of sense to me.  i might try this as my biggest extant complaint is my off-on throttle response... it's very abrupt.

Quote from: Ash on May 08, 2008, 06:30:04 AM
this makes a lot of sense to me.  i might try this as my biggest extant complaint is my off-on throttle response... it's very abrupt.

As is mine....driveline lash up the wazoo....Part of that is my loose-ass chain though....

I will sometimes tap the clutch lever when going from throttle off to throttle on just to smooth things out, or just being very smooth and careful will get rid of some of the abruptness..

The nature of our bikes, though, is that they engine-brake AND accelerate very well, so there is bound to be some sort of sharp transition from off to on...

Quote from: Speeddog on May 07, 2008, 08:25:40 PM
If I were you, I'd open the bleeds to get the idle up.
Nice thing about them is they're easy to get at and adjust.
If it makes some other problem, you can wind 'em back in.

That sounds good, man....easy enough to do, reversible,  and might alleviate some of the low-idle stalling....Thanks again!!  wt:

My '08 S4RS has done the same thing from day one, including what seems like dying for just a millisecond.  Additionally it has just stopped running a couple of times while coasting up to stop lights.  A quick trip back to the dealer had the tech check everything then change the bleed screw setting to fractionally richen things up and it seemed a bit better.  Also, on day one, one of the clamps on one of the water hoses hadn't been tightened by the factory, resulting in a bit of coolant piss which was quickly remedied with a fresh clamp and off I went.  Well upon further inspection, I noticed the coolant level was quite a bit low in the expansion tank.  After topping it off to the proper level, the bike has run nearly flawlessly since.  The "sneezing" seems to be rarer and rarer and it's only done the pop/die once since.  The service manager muttered something about the ECU "learning" as I'm riding, but who knows.  It definitely seems to be getting better and better, as does the mileage as it breaks in.  The general consensus I've gotten from techs and other owners is that the DP ECU that comes with the full Termi system seems to cure the running maladies of these beasts, which most seem to chalk up to the lean running requirements of Euro 3 emissions.  Guess I'll know for sure when I get the Termis.

mxwinky, your S4Rs has an O2 sensor, and thus runs closed-loop, which is a significant difference between your bike and the S4 and S4R.

Doesn't mean that all of what we've been talking about here doesn't apply, but most of it doesn't.

Glad to hear that your bike is running better, and not trying to chase you off, just wanted you to know.

I'll tell you what, mine does the exact same thing. And its a 01 900SIE, and finally one day after come down off a wheelie it did the whole pop/ die thing and then just stopped working. I can't figuire it out. The bike runs fine on starting fluid. I got a new fuel pump and sensor. it primes fine, got spark. Must be something with injectors. Who knows.

But i am missing summer and lots of riding, any ideas