In no particular order.

Perry doesn't cook, unfortunately.  He does however wash up, and doesn't complain too much about my fetish for expensive French cast iron cookware.  I like to think I'm a pretty good cook, at least Perry eats my food.

The handlebar mounts are hollow.  I was initially going to mill them flat and use the tig welder to fill the holes, but if I mill them flat there will be enormous holes, and I'm concerned about weakening the triple.  So they can stay.  I'll machine a nice cover to go over the top, on which I can mount a gear display or voltmeter or some other piece of extremely useful instrumentation.

Since the test fit I've done some more modification to the metalwork to get things to fit better.  There were mounting tabs on the U shaped thingy for mounting a fly-screen, which were in the way of the brake and clutch line.  They had discussions with my hacksaw, and have decided to live separately from my bike.  The indicators were also almost hitting the brake and clutch levers.  I made new holes in their mounting plates to move them down ~15mm, to provide more clearance.  I'm toying with lowering the gauges, but that's probably a task for a little later - I want to get the bike running again for now, so I can have a bit of a breather.

The clamping ears on the clipons limit the amount of lock available to a little less than stock.  At some point I'd like to machine them down a little, but that implies reanodizing them.  If I'm reanodizing them, I'll also redo the fork caps, which are more orange than red.  For now I'll just cope with a slightly larger turning circle.  So next time we do a U turn on a ride, you can all laugh while I make a five or seven point turn.

Oh, and my brakes arrived.  They look really wonderful - brand new kit.  The only thing I'm missing is the banjo bolts, which I think I can reuse from my old calipers and master.  I'll buy some new crush washers and fluid tomorrow, as well as a torx driver to undo the bolts holding the rotors to the wheel.

It's really nice to have this stuff finally coming together.

sounds good suzyj - you should have started a project thread on this! 

Yeah, once I'm done I'll put a post up in accessories and mods.

Quote from: suzyj on August 05, 2010, 11:19:36 PM
Yeah, once I'm done I'll put a post up in accessories and mods.

Where?

Quote from: Betty on August 06, 2010, 12:16:22 AM
Where?

Never mind.












It appears there are places other than Ozmo-land 

 Suzy....I cook......and use le creuset....I even have the silicon spatulas (highly recommended)....

should I mention the kitchenaid blender....the Dualit toaster or the Mazzer coffee grinder just below the vintage  Wushtof knives.



(i used to write kitchen porn novels for house wives)

Fsking crap tools.  Why doesn't anyone sell decent quality tools?

So we trundled down to the local automotive place today to find a T40 torx bit to use on the brake rotors.  All they had was a slightly dubious "Tool King" set.  I heated the rotor bolts with a hot air gun to soften the loctite, and went to it.  One rotor came off fine.  The crap tool wasn't up to taking the other rotor off, and sheared off.

Anyone know where I can get a half decent torx bit?  I'm thinking Gedore or Stahlwille.  I'll try bunnings, but I fear they'll have similar rubbish.

Heh, Suzy babe, dont hang by your tender bits on expectation of Bunnings having anything decent!!

Only specialised tool places for moi when after good stuff! Unfortunately most of them close at lunchtime on Saturdays!

You'd be better off hitting the  until the morrow. 

poor tools is an indicator that our society has fallen from previous heights, we even used the existence of tools as a way of differentiating ourselves from 'animals'. If that's the case our tools show us to have no foresight, lack of understanding of true value or any pride in our work.

take that tool back to the hardwear store and demand a refund!

(if anyone knows of an internet based site that has fantastic quality tools....let's hear about them!)

Quote from: Spider on August 06, 2010, 09:50:34 PM
poor tools is an indicator that our society has fallen from previous heights, we even used the existence of tools as a way of differentiating ourselves from 'animals'. If that's the case our tools show us to have no foresight, lack of understanding of true value or any pride in our work.

That's very philosophical Spider.

Quote from: suzyj on August 06, 2010, 09:22:53 PM
Fsking crap tools.  Why doesn't anyone sell decent quality tools?

Anyone know where I can get a half decent torx bit?  I'm thinking Gedore or Stahlwille.  I'll try bunnings, but I fear they'll have similar rubbish.

Hey Suzy
Your best bet on the weekend is
Try AutoBahn ? They stock Kingcrome
Kingcrome brand are generaly ok. and torx bits are a bit hard to find  in good quality brands.
Mitre 10 at monavale stock Kingcrome but there thieves down there.
And bunnings at Belrose i have seen Kingcrome.
The mobile tool van guys usualy stock Gedore or Stahlwille but there thieves as well.
Or try Snap on tools, you may just have to do a bit of googling

I would also just replace the torx heads with stainless steel socket head hex cap screws, thats what i did

Quote from: suzyj on August 06, 2010, 09:22:53 PM
Fsking crap tools.  Why doesn't anyone sell decent quality tools?

So we trundled down to the local automotive place today to find a T40 torx bit to use on the brake rotors.  All they had was a slightly dubious "Tool King" set.  I heated the rotor bolts with a hot air gun to soften the loctite, and went to it.  One rotor came off fine.  The crap tool wasn't up to taking the other rotor off, and sheared off.

Anyone know where I can get a half decent torx bit?  I'm thinking Gedore or Stahlwille.  I'll try bunnings, but I fear they'll have similar rubbish.

there is various grades of tools

cheap and cheap and nasty as well as good and good and overpriced and ok and overpriced


FWIW i bought a tool set at kmart a while ago for a few reasons , 1 as a spare set and 2nd because it had a large selection of torx bits

full set of ring/open end spaners in metric and imperial , a set of 3/8 sockets and a set of torx socket bits and iirc some 1/4 sockets as well ,

this was a 25% off day but it was only $30-$40 and so far have survived all ive thrown at them

alternatives are a set of torx bits are about $50 which you should find at either supercheap or repco

supercheap has a set of allen sockets for only about $20 which have worked well so far

online tools , these guys sent me a big catalogue the other day  http://www.amanstoyshop.com.au/

alternatively google online tools and click the australian search and there is a string of them that have email specials

O'h Suzy
If you got a heavy duty soldering iron try heating the  bolts with that to soften the loctite or heating the end of an old screw driver with a gas torch and place the hot bit on the bolt head 

Quote from: suzyj on August 06, 2010, 09:22:53 PM
Fsking crap tools.  Why doesn't anyone sell decent quality tools?

So we trundled down to the local automotive place today to find a T40 torx bit to use on the brake rotors.  All they had was a slightly dubious "Tool King" set.  I heated the rotor bolts with a hot air gun to soften the loctite, and went to it.  One rotor came off fine.  The crap tool wasn't up to taking the other rotor off, and sheared off.

Anyone know where I can get a half decent torx bit?  I'm thinking Gedore or Stahlwille.  I'll try bunnings, but I fear they'll have similar rubbish.

The secret is the use of an impact driver.

Got a large Minicraft 3/8 drive socket set that has all the tork type sockets. 

Very nice tools and never had a problem, very well finished.

So some crappy bolt thinks it can defeat me!  Not a chance.  I went and bought a set of Kinchrome torx bits.  Still crappy, but better than the one that broke.  Lots of heat was applied to the rotor and hub to soften the loctite, and they finally succumbed.  So I whipped the new ones on (with blue loctite), chucked the wheel back in my forks, fitted the new calipers, painted my triple (and the metalwork supporting the headlight and indicators after modifying it), then put it all back together.  Here 'tis, almost ready to roll.  All I have to do now is put brake fluid in the front brake circuit, and bleed both the brakes and clutch (on account of disturbing the banjo at the master).

Some photos.  Firstly the rider's eye view:



Black is nice.  Next, the whole thing from the front:



And from the rear:



And finally detail of the brakes and fork ends:



I'm glad I painted the fork ends black, as I think they would have looked a little naff in their original brown anodize.

Now to insert fluids, set sag, and go for a ride!