yeah could be just bad fuel, and unfortunately bad fuel will foul new plugs real quickly.  Only remedy there is to replace the plugs and ride the tank out, unless you have a cager and put the fuel in it.

Good to see it was nothing major! 

Great to see all is OK, FYI we try to only use BP Ultimate and had not yet had an issue.

The Ducati Dealer I worked for used to get this quite regularly up in Cairns (Crap fuel up there)
Every time they would drain the fuel and purge the fuel system, replace with new fuel, change
the plugs and check the computer or Carb settings.

Every time (Well for the 2 months I was there anyway) it fixed the problems, they would sometimes
have to do a minor tweak to the mixture settings on the DDS or tweak the Carb settings.

But the vast majority of the time it was just bad fuel.

Hmmmmm, tried to start her yesterday and she wouldn't go 

She cranks over really slowly - even when connected to my brand new car battery...

Be checking the charging system and battery condition!! 

didnt Mattyvas have a similar odd problem and it came down to replacing the starter motor or something?? 

I am too lazy to search for the thread! 

Quote from: Mr.S2R on September 28, 2010, 06:07:25 PM
didnt Mattyvas have a similar odd problem and it came down to replacing the starter motor or something?? 

I am too lazy to search for the thread! 

Does this help?

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=35440.0

After nearly 3 months of hibernation I decided to get the ol' girl out  (Sorry but I've been out at sea, and the weather has been crap)
Even after an overnight charge, she still wouldn't fire up.

I thought I'd poke around with the wiring, remember the Tacho was dropping out? Anyway, the wiring all seemed OK.
The battery was charged to 12.5V. I tried to start the bike. Fuel pump primes, started chugs over 2 or 3 times, then nothing.
I put it back on charge for 20 mins, then she started.
I shut down, then she wouldn't go... When cranking over, battery drops to just under 11V...

"Bugger it" I thought... Then I looked at the gauges sitting up on top or the triple. Waaaaaay above my lowered headlight.
20mins later, and a few mm chopped off the top of the "U-bracket thingy" and they were back on!

And now she starts

Could it have the lack of attention?
The lack of mods?

It does sound like Matty's old problem though...

Does sound a little bit my old problem.
Except when my drama was happening it (the starter) was draining all the electrical power.
It started a few times when the problem was being diagnosed but never really ran well.

Hmmm, I might have to pull the starter out...

Not looking forward to that 

My Monster did the same as yours Dave, and I pulled my starter out took it to a local auto electrician and he found the problem straight away, it turned out to be the insulator where the starter cable bolts to had cracked and was shorting out, and that part is not available.

  I got the starter back fully serviced and better than brand new.

   OK, now to get that pesky starter out all you need to do is;

    Unbolt the starter cable from the starter, note that you need to hold the nut closest to the starter body and undo the other nut to release the cable.

    Drain the engine oil


    Remove (unbolt) the left side engine cover (this will give you access to the third hidden bolt).


    Unbolt the three bolts that hold the starter motor, take it to your preferred repairer


    Obviously reverse these instructions to put all back together.

    If I've missed something I'm sure that someone will chime in.






                                 Mmick

Hmm interesting how a lot of people are using 98 fuel
I was always under the impression that high octane fuel
is only needed in high compression engines .
Which the Monster is not.
Isnt the higher the octane the more the fuel can be compressed
before ignition ?
So basically you are paying more for something that gives no benifit .
I just use 91 and it goes alright but its hard to find now due to e10   
which makes our bikes very un happy so I now use 95 BP or Caltex if I can get it.

Ok Dave, if you have to spend so much time away at once I will volunteer to go around and turn your baby over for you! Happy to help out.

Otherwise she can come and stay with me so she gets some company. That might stop her being so temperamental when you get back.

Thanks Mmick, sounds easy enough. Is there a gasket on the inside of the engine cover? If so, will I need to replace it?

Two Dogs, I usually run Caltex 95ron. I have expiremented with 98, but could "feel" (seat of pants) no real benefit, nor did I get any better fuel consumption.
I prefer Caltex fuel because the ship I drive discharges Caltex products at Hobart. I know the fuel hasn't been contaminated, before it reaches the terminal at least...
But as I've said before, it's all the same shit anyway 

Leigh, I would take you up on the offer... but I don't have to go back to work until next year 

No gasket on the alternator case.
There is a gasket on the starter to the crank case, i reused mine with a little silicone sealant
I use permatex grey silicone available at most auto shops.
3bond is another brand of silicone sealant but a tad hard to find.
Just clean the faces with turps or thinners.
And don't forget the screw near the front sprocket behind the guard.
And you will need case puller.
I used a universal pulley/wheel puller available at most auto shops about $20.
You can also try just pulling the clutch lever with the slave in situ with the case screws removed.
That worked for me as well.

Oh and if you got the altenator case of good idea to check the starter sprag.
you need a big C spanner to fit the fly whee,l i made my own.

Rob