Limited words here. Its straight forward enough for me to snap pics along the way and remember the order I did them in.

So anyway, if your brake pads are worn, youll start hearing them moan or you will see the wear indicator disappear.
Now as far as cleaning the rotor goes. Some people use a tool to hone them again, some people use a scotch brite. Some people just wash it with rotor cleaner. I used a scotch brite pad. Im not here to judge, and Im not a professional. I cleaned the rotors with some simple green and scotch brite and bed them in according to my prefered method, which is outlined on a website that I am currently looking for, but cannot find. If you dont clean your rotors your not going to get the pads to mate with the rotors and your braking is going to suck big time.

Step 1. Remove the 2 bolts and press the caliper against the rotor to compress the pistons, otherwise you wont be able to get them out. Read on and youll see what i mean.



Step 2. Remove the 2 cotter pins that hold the main pins. I like to use a pick, if you cant access it, you can rotate the pin by hand or with a pair of pliers. there are 2 cotters per brake. One on each pin



Step 3. Pull out both pins and the brake pads will fall out.



Step 4. Looking at your pads. Heres some pics of my old pads vs new Pads You can see the difference here.


Step 5. Stare at them some more


Step 6.  Using a prybar, screw driver, whatever you have around you that can give you leverage to push the edge of the piston in. Becareful as you can make a scar on the brake caliper if you dont put a piece of clotch between whatever tool your using and whatever part of hte caliper your pushing against for leverage. Dont go nuts here, once the pistons start moving just let it move slowly.


Step 7. Your only looking to spread them enough so that you can get both pads in with some space in between.


Step 8. Like previously, you just reinstall the pins so they pass through both pads, and the backing plate. Notice that the backing plate as an UP arrow indicating which way it should be installed. Reinstall the cotter pins and then use a screw driver to gently spread the pads apart so you can slip the rotor between them.


Now slip it onto the rotor reinstall the 2 bolts and your good to go.

looks like someone needs a new pair of gloves

theyre still good!!!!

nah i have to repalce them, just havent found any that fit. Home depot rarely carries small and i cant pick anything up with the mediums.

Thanks for the writeup, I'm changing pads this weekend.

Good luck with your quest for small gloves. 

Thanks for the Tip HeMan.

I tried to service my brake but once I took off the Bolts that held the Caliper, It started bleeding like crazy.

I had to occasionally put new Brake Fluid into the Cylinder just to make sure it wouldn't run out.

Any tips for this?

Which bolts did you remove? the two that i pictured? or some other bolts? There should be no fluid coming out of anywhere. it is a closed system. if there is though, then it would have to mean something is broken and you have to trace the source of the leak.

Great info He Man! Thanks for the write up 

This really helps noobs like me feel comfortable doing maintenance work.

Quote from: militar3rd on May 11, 2011, 06:46:25 PM
Thanks for the Tip HeMan.

I tried to service my brake but once I took off the Bolts that held the Caliper, It started bleeding like crazy.

I had to occasionally put new Brake Fluid into the Cylinder just to make sure it wouldn't run out.

Any tips for this?

Sounds like you loosened the banjo bolt connecting to the brake line. If you do that then, yeah, it's going to leak brake fluid, but it should stop once you tighten it back down.

To replace the brake pads, the only bolts you need to remove are the two holding each caliper to the fork lowers. You don't need to take the calipers completely off the bike.

If, even after tightening down the banjo bolt fitting, you still have to keep topping off the reservoir, then you've got a leak in the system somewhere and need to get that looked at by someone who knows what they're doing.

Also, when you're doing something like this, it's a good idea to keep an eye on the reservoir attached to the master cylinder. As you force the pistons back into the caliper, you're going to be forcing brake fluid back toward the reservoir. It can really ruin your day if it overflows and winds up messing up your paint. 

damnit man.  do i have to mail you gloves too? 

hmmm....this is very helpful. However, the pictures are no longer available?

He hosts them on a site he runs, looks like he might have deleted the gallery possibly forgetting that the images support this post.

http://kuixihe.com/Kui%20Xi%20He/

i didnt delete the gallery, i just completely bombed the script when i tried to fix the thumbnails  and i was fedup on the "free" gallery. so i purchased the software to run the one you just linked too