Went under the tank on my 11 796 for the first time, attaching the pig tail for the battery tender.  It was an interesting experience.     The workshop manual has some nice pictures but some of them didn't seem to apply to me.  I guess it's kind of like sex, once you've done it the first time you know where everything is supposed to go?  Just hoping I'm not the only one who struggled with the 76 fasteners, 53 spacers and 27 and one half of other little thingies.

Quote from: cyberswine on November 30, 2011, 12:43:06 AM
Went under the tank on my 11 796 for the first time, attaching the pig tail for the battery tender.  It was an interesting experience.     The workshop manual has some nice pictures but some of them didn't seem to apply to me.  I guess it's kind of like sex, once you've done it the first time you know where everything is supposed to go?  Just hoping I'm not the only one who struggled with the 76 fasteners, 53 spacers and 27 and one half of other little thingies.

wow that's a lot.
but yes, it's a pain.

It's Italian, Easy isn't in thier dictionary. But they do have 30 words for sexy.

yeah, when accessing anything under the tank for the new monsters it's best to plan out ahead and do every single little thing you can think of in one shot.  it's too much of a PITA otherwise.

the worst for me is when i installed my air filter.  i got it all back together and then i found out that the duc filters dont come pre oiled and had to take it all apart again to oil it.

I can make you feel better about your Monster....


all you have to do is take my Cagiva Gran Canyon apart once!!!

if you are careful you can keep the 3 skins in one piece and only have to remove 9 bolts. take the 5 that surround the gas cap out (keep the spacers with the bolts), the 2 on either side (spacers SHOULD stay in the skin, but sometimes fall out) and the two large head ones that are covered by the seat. lift the center portion so it slides over the gas cap and slide the whole thing back, pop the right side out first so that you can negotiate the ABS better. left side should be cake. if it starts to drive you insane you can cheat and pop 1 or both sides off. reverse the order to put it back together.

the bolt that goes through the rubber piece that holds the tank to the frame on the right hand side can be thrown away.

just make sure you keep the sensor secured so it doesn't melt on your pipe (its the one at the back near where the tank bolts to the frame).

bit of practice and it should only take about 20 minutes to change your battery

  After getting home on my new 1100 Evo, I was dismayed to discover that there wasn't a pig-tail fitted. I took it back to the dealer and complained. 2 hours later and the job was done, free of charge! I looked in the owners manual to see what was involved..........................................! Bloody hell!

Quote from: mickyvee on November 30, 2011, 10:46:14 AM
After getting home on my new 1100 Evo, I was dismayed to discover that there wasn't a pig-tail fitted. I took it back to the dealer and complained. 2 hours later and the job was done, free of charge! I looked in the owners manual to see what was involved..........................................! Bloody hell!

you can skip out a lot of the steps listed in the manual actually... the manual basically has you disassemble everything but you really dont need to mess with the evap/fuel overflow hoses.  you can just unscrew the gas cap off the tank and let it all hang off the bike.

but yeah, total PITA.  the sf is surprisingly a lot easier to work on compared to the new monster.  battery is right in the tail under a plastic cover and the air filter just need 3 bolts taken out to access.

Quoteif you are careful you can keep the 3 skins in one piece

Thanks for that, I'll give it a shot next time.  Far, far away next time 

I agree with Raux, the journey to the underside of the fuel tank is more painful that it really ought be.

Its annoyingly fiddlesome, sure.

But really, its not that difficult. 

Just for the record:

On my S4, I remove the seat, pop the latch, prop up the tank, and done   

Quote from: lazylightnin717 on December 01, 2011, 02:13:47 AM
Just for the record:

On my S4, I remove the seat, pop the latch, prop up the tank, and done   

and replace the tank when the hinge fails

Quote from: Raux on December 01, 2011, 04:04:51 AM
and replace the tank when the hinge fails

[cough]bullshit[cough]

I can repair a tank for less money than you guys lose in time travelling to the dealer and waiting for your plastic tanks to be replaced...

over and over and over again.

And apparently faster than it takes to get under the tank of the newest bikes.

Quote from: ducpainter on December 01, 2011, 04:12:45 AM
[cough]bullshit[cough]

I can repair a tank for less money than you guys lose in time travelling to the dealer and waiting for your plastic tanks to be replaced...

over and over and over again.

And apparently faster than it takes to get under the tank of the newest bikes.

Bike in stock form, I'm pretty damn fast getting to the battery. 

Quote from: Raux on December 01, 2011, 04:19:12 AM
Bike in stock form, I'm pretty damn fast getting to the battery. 

Experience will do that.