New rider, new 620 dark owner - clutch problems

[banterer]

Hello,

I just got a new (in miles - 996 and in looks!) 2005 620 Dark that had been sitting for about 10 months or so. I replaced the battery and it started right up but when I squeezed the clutch and put it into 1st, it moved and stalled. Apparently the clutch is never disengaging. I have read that Ducs have notoriously bad clutch slaves and that they leak and need to be bleed regularly.

Can anyone tell me if that is what is going on? I tried going through the gears and it seems to go to 1st, Neutral and 2nd.

I bought a cheap MityVac bleeder kit yesterday because I could not find the electric MV6380 in stock anywhere. Should I bleed the clutch or wait until my mechanic friends come back from their Labor Day weekend adventures?

Thanks,
Jorge

[Buckethead]

Pretty typical of the wet-clutch ducs, especially when cold. My 620 used to do that until the oil got to about 140'.

I'd say let the bike warm up until the oil temp gauge is reading something besides "lo" and give it a shot.

Oh, and welcome! 

[banterer]

Thanks.

So wait, are you saying that this is normal and that the clutch may be fine? Just run it until the temp says 140??

Jorge

Pretty typical of the wet-clutch ducs, especially when cold. My 620 used to do that until the oil got to about 140'.

I'd say let the bike warm up until the oil temp gauge is reading something besides "lo" and give it a shot.

Oh, and welcome! 

[S2daRk]

You should be able to tell if your clutch is disengaging by squeezing the lever. Does the clutch lever feel really loose when you squeeze it? If so then, you most likely have some air in the system. It won't hurt anything if you bleed it.

[banterer]

Clutch does not feel particularly "loose" just does not feel like it is doing anything at all.

Can someone tell me if this link is all I need to do the bleeding?

Bleeding the clutch http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html.

Oh, another reason I think there is something wrong is that even when squeezing the clutch, I cannot get it past 2nd. I am hoping that someone tells me "Oh yeah, that is normal when you have air in the system" Otherwise I fear the worst. This is my first bike.

Thanks,
Jorge

You should be able to tell if your clutch is disengaging by squeezing the lever. Does the clutch lever feel really loose when you squeeze it? If so then, you most likely have some air in the system. It won't hurt anything if you bleed it.

[Buckethead]

You may actually have some air in the line, in which case bleeding it will obviously help.

If you bleed it and it doesn't fix the problem, then try warming it up fully before moving off.

Like I said, my 620 used to do the same thing. Once it got to operating temp, I never had a problem. This is not necessarily a "normal" condition, but its not unheard of.

[banterer]

If not normal, how it that fixed? I read that people automatically replace the clutch slave with a yoyodyne or evoluzione. Or is that for a totally different thing?

You may actually have some air in the line, in which case bleeding it will obviously help.

If you bleed it and it doesn't fix the problem, then try warming it up fully before moving off.

Like I said, my 620 used to do the same thing. Once it got to operating temp, I never had a problem. This is not necessarily a "normal" condition, but its not unheard of.

[Popeye the Sailor]

If not normal, how it that fixed? I read that people automatically replace the clutch slave with a yoyodyne or evoluzione. Or is that for a totally different thing?

That's typically done to get a lighter clutch pull, which is probably not needed on the 620.


In other news, your belts are overdue (they need to be replaced every two years, regardless of miles). You need to seriously consider replacing them before you run this much more, especially given the length of time it has sat. You'll likely grenade the engine.

[S2daRk]

Clutch does not feel particularly "loose" just does not feel like it is doing anything at all.

Then you most likely have air in the system. My bike should have the same slave as yours and when you have the engine off, if you listen closely, you can hear the clutch moving when you squeeze the lever.

Here are some good directions for bleeding w/ a vacuum system. http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes/bleeding-motorcycle-brakes.htm The grease around the threads of the bleeder screw really helped me out.

[banterer]

Thanks!

Ok, just what does changing the belts entail? I'm not a motocycle mechanic but am mechanically inclined. I have a lot of tools and am an ex-EE but don't want to make this bike my career. Should I just have a mechanic do it for me?

Oh, BTW, I did not ride the bike home I trucked it back home. I have not run it more than 2-4 minutes since I got it.

Jorge

That's typically done to get a lighter clutch pull, which is probably not needed on the 620.


In other news, your belts are overdue (they need to be replaced every two years, regardless of miles). You need to seriously consider replacing them before you run this much more, especially given the length of time it has sat. You'll likely grenade the engine.

[Buckethead]

The aftermarket slave cylinders are typically for the dry-clutch models, which have a much heavier clutch pull.

That is the correct procedure for bleeding a clutch. Pretty straight-forward. Just make sure you wipe up everything carefully when you're done.

[Popeye the Sailor]

Thanks!

Ok, just what does changing the belts entail? I'm not a motocycle mechanic but am mechanically inclined. I have a lot of tools and am an ex-EE but don't want to make this bike my career. Should I just have a mechanic do it for me?

Oh, BTW, I did not ride the bike home I trucked it back home. I have not run it more than 2-4 minutes since I got it.

Jorge

There's probably a hot-to on it-I'll take a look. I would have a mechanic do it though-if you muckle yet timing, you'll ruin the motor. Not worth it, IMO.

[banterer]

Ok thanks, in that case, no need to look it up. I will have someone do it for me. So about how much should this run? You can give me a range, I know it is hard to know labor rates.

So, is there any way of knowing the conditions of the belts now? The bike was kept inside a condo unit's garage and tires look new. IN other words, it was not out in the sun. I ask because after I bleed the thing I don't want to turn it on and damage the engine!

[Popeye the Sailor]

Condition is sort of irrelevant with the belts-they're past due. I'm told after they sit for an extended period, they develop "hard spots" on the areas that were say, stretched over the pulleys for all that time, and once one goes to run it, those areas break.


As far as cost, i haven't the faintest-less than $300 I should imagine, given that the belts are part of the 12k service, and the local shop charges $300 or so for the whole mess.


Have 'em change the oil while you're at it.

[banterer]

Ok will do.

So one final note, the apparent limitation of only being able to go from 1-N-2 is normal if the clutch is having the "air in the line" troubles?