brakeline and clutchline - fitment issues with Suburban Machinery handlebar

[corpthug]

So I bent my oem handlebar and bought a suburban machinery bar to fit on my S2R dark.  SM told me to order the M3 bar instead of the S2R/S4R bar so that's what I did.  fitment overall was OK except for the brakeline and clutchline which needed to be stressed in order to fit it on - meaning the lines are forced against other parts.  The following is a pic:




The red areas indicate where the lines are pushed against the tach setup.  I know this may sound like a dumb question (I'm getting used to asking those on this forum now) but is it ok for the lines to be pressured against something else like that?  I'm wondering if the stress will cause any damage later on since it seems ok as of now.  Just to be clear, the stress is pretty significant, which is what worries me.  Advice appreciated.

[corpthug]

Also, another question: I tried unscrewing the sprocket that connects the brake/clutchline in order to alter the angle that the line connects.  Changing that angle would help with the fitment because the lines are so stiff.  But no matter how hard i'd try to get the sprocket loose, it would not budge.  I took that as a sign to leave it be but I'm assuming it should be removeable.

Again, sorry if this question is too dumb, I'm learning a good amount from them!

[El Matador]

Also, another question: I tried unscrewing the sprocket that connects the brake/clutchline in order to alter the angle that the line connects.  Changing that angle would help with the fitment because the lines are so stiff.  But no matter how hard i'd try to get the sprocket loose, it would not budge.  I took that as a sign to leave it be but I'm assuming it should be removeable.

Again, sorry if this question is too dumb, I'm learning a good amount from them!

You can loosen the banjo bolts a little so you can change the angle of the lines with no prob

[corpthug]

You can loosen the banjo bolts a little so you can change the angle of the lines with no prob

i'm pretty sure i'm not too weak to loosen the "banjo bolts" (sorry didn't know the name of them).  Any clue as to why I can not get them loose?  I have the right tools i'm sure and yes i'm turning it the right way ha.

[Speeddog]

It's a little difficult to tell from the picture, but it looks like your levers are rotated down a *lot*.
That may be part of the issue.
If you can post a couple pics more from the side...

As El Matador said, you can loosen the banjo bolts to allow you to rotate the lines.
Loosen them as little as possible so you don't get air into the system.
Sometimes they are quite tight.

[corpthug]

Thanks speeddog.  I realized that I should be able to get them loose, but they just wouldn't budge no matter how forceful I put the wrench to it.  I guess I'll try again tomorrow.

And yea, the levers are rotated down a lot due to the fitment issues.  They actually don't feel that unnatural so I don't really mind it.  It's just the stress on the lines that bother me...

Gotta tell ya, before I got my monster, I don't think I had even touched a wrench before in my life!  Nowadays I really enjoy tinkering with the bike.  Cheers to that on a Fri night! ha 

[Super T.I.B]

I had the same issue on my 620. The placement of those lines won't affect anything. They are braided lines and won't kink or collapse.

Later on you might want to think about taking that line right off and re-routing it under your instrument cluster. And be careful of your fast idle cable, it sneaks up over where your cluster bolts down and revs up your engine when on full left lock.

[teddy037.2]

the thought had crossed my mind as well (routing lines under the cluster), because I redrilled my bars to put the ctrls more where I wanted them...

I just switched to goldlines instead. excuse to mod, eh? 

[Langanobob]

I had the same issue on my 620. The placement of those lines won't affect anything. They are braided lines and won't kink or collapse.

Later on you might want to think about taking that line right off and re-routing it under your instrument cluster. And be careful of your fast idle cable, it sneaks up over where your cluster bolts down and revs up your engine when on full left lock.

This thread is  perfect timing for me since I just changed bars and have some similar issues and was going to ask the same questions.  In my case I think I want to  lengthen the brake and clutch hoses by about an inch.  Anyone know if any of our sponsors sell the hoses?  And, yeah, I get a couple hundred extra RPM at full left lock.  Gotta fix that too.

Thanks,

Bob

[He Man]

completely remove the banjo bolt and flip the orientation of the line itself so it is more favorable. You can tug on it and get a few more inches (atleast on the brakeside) and run them through the guages. but be prepared with a clear tube and brake fluid to rebleed your system.

[Langanobob]

Just to be clear, the stress is pretty significant, which is what worries me.  Advice appreciated.

I know this thread is getting old but I don't know how it got resolved.  Just my final comment, if it was my bike, I sure wouldn't leave it that way.  It may not fail, but it isn't right.   I talked to Chris at Ca-Cycle Works about mine, which isn't nearly as bad as yours and he suggested ordering longer hoses from Galfers.