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Adapters for making OEM rearsets adjustable

Started by Mojo S2R, January 24, 2009, 05:26:38 PM

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Mojo S2R

Just found these on the GSG-Mototechnik website

http://www.gsg-mototechnik.de/variogel/ducati-rasten.htm


Oldfisti

That's pretty clever right there. Nice alternative when you wanna keep the cost down. Me likey!   [thumbsup]
Quote from: Sinister on November 06, 2008, 12:47:21 PM
It's like I keep saying:  Those who would sacrifice a free range session for a giant beer, deserve neither free range time nor a giant beer.
Quote from: KnightofNi on November 10, 2009, 04:45:16 AM
i have had guys reach back and grab my crotch in an attempt to get around me. i'll either blow in their ear or ask them politely to let go of my wang.

Darth Paul

Looks like the MFW pegs you can get from monsterparts.com.  Personally I LOVE them.  Being 6'1" the stock pegs were a little too high for me, but didn't feel like spending $500 on new rearsets.





Mojo S2R

Looks like you may be right and now I have something else I want to get from Jeff.  I wonder if I can order them without the footpegs.  I just ordered some new footpegs and wonder how hard it would be to modify them to mount on that adapter.  I'm guessing just cut off the mount point from my new pegs and drill and tap to mount to the adapter.

CDawg

#4
Great find!  Especially given the poor economy!
Me likey!


urgh...not avail for S4RS... :(

Mojo S2R

GSG didn't have the S2R listed either.  I think the ones at Monsterparts may work (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/MFW-1/Controls/MFW-1.html).  The options there are DSS/SSS, 30mm/23mm, and Black/Silver. 

Check with Jeff - he can verify, but I figure if one option is SSS (Single Sided Swingarm) then it should work for our bikes.

I'm also going to ask him if he'll sell just the adapters without the pegs.  I'm thinking of modding some new pegs I just ordered so I can attach them to the adapters.

OverCaffeinated

Any positive feedback on these pegs from shorter riders?

JEFF_H

FYI-
MFW's chart is wrong on these.
The part number they list for the S2R doesnt work (its a different #)
the part # for the superbikes works on the S4RS

you can get the components separately, but i dont think you'll be able to make different pegs work with the adapter arm part...its pretty specialized.


Mojo S2R

Quote from: JEFF_H on January 25, 2009, 02:55:55 PM
FYI-
MFW's chart is wrong on these.
The part number they list for the S2R doesnt work (its a different #)
the part # for the superbikes works on the S4RS

you can get the components separately, but i dont think you'll be able to make different pegs work with the adapter arm part...its pretty specialized.

Jeff,
Couldn't I just cut the mounting bracket from my new pegs then drill a tapered hole into the end and tap it for the bolts?

JEFF_H

<shrug>
im not the expert on do-it-yourself  ;D

if you look at the pic, the adapter and footpeg are fitted together with the round part (and bolt)

Mojo S2R

I see what you are saying.  The threads are on the adapter and not on the foot peg.  I thought the bolt went through the adapter and bolted to threads on the foot peg.  If I do decide to continue with my crazy thought and modify it to work the way I think it should how much would I be spending for just the adapter sets with no footpegs?

stopintime

Mojo

You will (probably) not be able to get the tolerances/tightness of these sets by modding your pegs. That will lead to too much pressure on the bolts, which is NOT good. The new pegs offer better grip. They are not expensive. Main point is safety! IMO - save your modding for something less risky and more rewarding. The pegs only, are about $35 - please DO NOT risk it to save $35.


Part # adapter 051 030300
         arm      051 000023/-30/-50 (23 or 50 mm length)(forget 50mm)
         pegs     050 000100 - * (* = color code)

These numbers are for S*R bikes.
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

Mojo S2R

I'm not trying to save any money.  I have a brand spanking new set of foot pegs coming in the mail already.  I just found out about these adapters and was thinking about a way to modify my new pegs to work on these. 

If it looks like it's going to be a bad idea then I'll just pass on the adapters for now.  I don't see how running the bolt in one end versus the other end will make a difference on how much pressure is put on the bolts.  If anything, I think it would be stronger if the bolthead is on the opposite side from the peg and the peg acts as a nut.  I don't know.  Just a thought.

stopintime

Don't get me wrong - I salute good ideas and curiousity [thumbsup]

My thoughts on the possible weak spot is where the peg connects to the arm - if the peg is not completely flat against the arm and/or the tapered hole isn't perfect, it will rely too much on the bolt, with less support from the contact points between the arm and the peg.

These "rearsets" offer back, up and down effect + combinations. They are the only ones to offer any lowering.
Some people reported issues with them being wider, so your feet would have to be angled inwards to reach the toe pegs - others had no problems.
I heard someone ordered them just to search for the right peg position, so they later on could get the rearsets that offered the right adjustabilities for their needs. Also to be considered is the added reach to the brake/shift, if they are adjusted back.
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

Mojo S2R

#14
So here's my thought...

Below are pictures of the footpegs I've already ordered and the adapter without the footpeg.  I think the adapter pictured is the 30mm model and I will probably get the 23 mm length adapter.   I figure I take both pieces to a machine shop as I want the pieces to match up perfectly.

The way the adapter is designed, the nub on the right is threaded and the MFW footpegs have a bolt go through them and bolt into the adapter (right side on the pic).

I want the machine shop to cut the mount bracket off my new pegs (silver part of the pegs) and modify them and the adapters so they can be mounted together.

Should I -
A) Drill a hole through the adapter and shave the nub and mount the two flush with the bolt going in from the left side of the adapter into the threaded peg or
B) Drill a hole through the adapter and drill a hole into the peg for the nub then marry the two up and then run the bolt through the adapter to the threaded peg.

The guys at the machine shop are probably going to give me their thoughts but I was just curious if there are any engineers out there that can point me to the best solution.






Thanks.