Carbon fiber grades

[uclabiker06]

Hello,  curious to know what exactly do the terms "wet-lay" & "pre-preg" referr to? Thanks in advance

[Slide Panda]

Pre preg will generally be better.  The fiber mat comes permeated with the epoxy binder, the result is a more even finish and a stronger part.  Wet lay is how you would think of someone creating a fiber glass part.  The fiber mat is laid down then the binder is poured or brushed over it.  As a result the application can be less even that the pre-preg and cause weak spots and an un even finish.

[Spy+]

What about when the vendor mention "3X" ?

[JoeB]

could mean anything.

3x layers, or the twill might be 3x3 but in reality it means naf all for a non structural piece.

Most CF used for cosmetic pieces is constructed from a 225g/m 50/50 weave. Whether it's pre-preg or wet layup means bugger all if the part is vacuum bagged. However, if the part is wet laid (resin brushed / rolled in) then the weight will be greater for the same fibre density, because more resin is used.

I'd be more concerned about the CF parts being clearcoated with a UV safe clearcoat, or a UV stable gelcoat used in the mold before the carbon is laid up. Alternatively one can use 'surfboard resin' the top coat which is UV stable and very thin. it's usually poured onto the part and let to run off, then finish sanded when cured.

Many ways of skinning the cat.  lightest part will be an autoclaved pre-preg vacuum-bagged part. Done correctly it will be stronger than others - for the same weight.

[Hershell]

You might find this interesting.   

http://youtu.be/9_tDQTgdsCg

[AmoK]

I'm not sure if this is carbon fiber grade related of just about the finish, but I'll ask it anyway

I got a M900Sie, that comes with few CF parts. The front fender and side panels are original Ducati CF parts.
The problem is that the aftermarket CF parts that I have been able to find are mostly glossy, as the Ducati parts are not. How can I make these parts match, I'd like to have either glossy or matte pieces on my bike.
Is it possible to sand the parts and finishing them with matte coating?
How about making the matte parts glossy?

Thanks for the help!

[BoDiddley]

Watch out for the junk parts that are glass laminated between CF layers, they even call them wet lay. I just finished a rear fender fit for my S4RS and the company I bought it from forgot to mention anything about the glass but made a big deal out of the wet-lay.  It worked out fine anyhow but it was a rip from them.

[Kobiashi]

I have some CF parts on my Monster, which I'm considering painting (red) to match the original color scheme.
Is CF paintable?

[Hershell]

Lots of good info here....

http://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/222328-carbon-talk-interested-in-learning-more-about-automotive-cf-parts.html

[ducpainter]

I have some CF parts on my Monster, which I'm considering painting (red) to match the original color scheme.
Is CF paintable?

Yes.

Sometimes there will be defects in the carbon that aren't visible until you start applying paint, but it can be worked around.

[Spy+]

could mean anything.

3x layers, or the twill might be 3x3 but in reality it means naf all for a non structural piece.

Most CF used for cosmetic pieces is constructed from a 225g/m 50/50 weave. Whether it's pre-preg or wet layup means bugger all if the part is vacuum bagged. However, if the part is wet laid (resin brushed / rolled in) then the weight will be greater for the same fibre density, because more resin is used.

I'd be more concerned about the CF parts being clearcoated with a UV safe clearcoat, or a UV stable gelcoat used in the mold before the carbon is laid up. Alternatively one can use 'surfboard resin' the top coat which is UV stable and very thin. it's usually poured onto the part and let to run off, then finish sanded when cured.

Many ways of skinning the cat.  lightest part will be an autoclaved pre-preg vacuum-bagged part. Done correctly it will be stronger than others - for the same weight.

Thanks!!

[Case S2R]

I am sure it has been answered but

PrePreg = resin already applied to the carbon, typically hardens (forms final shape) with heat (in an oven).
Wet Lay = Dry carbon where the resin is  poured, dabbed, dipped or painted onto the cloth
3X = number of plys/layers, in this case 3 (duh!!!)

The advantage of pre preg is your layers stay lined up better, for a nicer finish, and the resin ratio stays stable (ex. 30% resin to fiber)  This is the preferred way to build high quality structures and it is WORLDS cleaner than wet lay. And more controllable from a quality control standpoint

The advantage of Wet lay is you have a lot more resin which typically fills pin holes and such and leads to a part that can (sometimes) be faster to prep for paint.  It is also much cheaper to buy and have on hand but resin can get everywhere, I never like doing it.

Fiberglass is sometime substituted as a top layer (or bottom) because it is saves money, clear, sands better, help the mold release...  It all depends on the part, manufacturer, and price point

As for our carbon ducati parts, 99.9% are cosmetic jewelry so as long as you like the look and don't yellow over time you are good to go.  I question if any of it is "real high qualty" (and it does not need to be).  If I hold it to the sun I can see daylight trying to shine through my factory monster carbon fender.  (off of a 2005 S4R).  Yea, it is thin but seems to work just fine.