what resistor to use for LED signals?

[Major Slow]

just wish one of the LEDs didn't have 4/8 led bulbs out....

Where they out from the git go ar did they quit after the addition of the resistor?

[♣ McKraut ♣]

Where they out from the git go ar did they quit after the addition of the resistor?

they were done from the git-go, before messing with resistors.

[mitt]

they were done from the git-go, before messing with resistors.

Still seems odd to have 4 in a row "bad".  I would bet they are configured in an array way with 2 rows of 4 or something, and for some reason, 1 row is not getting power.  Or, it could be that 1 bulb in the row is in backwards (LED's only turn on with current in 1 direction, in otherwords they are sensitive to +/- polarity) and not powering the others up. 

Take a pic of the led array, and especially the board if you can get to it.

[♣ McKraut ♣]

Still seems odd to have 4 in a row "bad".  I would bet they are configured in an array way with 2 rows of 4 or something, and for some reason, 1 row is not getting power.  Or, it could be that 1 bulb in the row is in backwards (LED's only turn on with current in 1 direction, in otherwords they are sensitive to +/- polarity) and not powering the others up. 

Take a pic of the led array, and especially the board if you can get to it.

hmm...yeah i'm pretty sure it's an entire row of 4 LEDs... i hadn't popped the cover off though to mess with it since i didn't know what i was doing.  i might try doing that though.  i'll post up pics if i can get to it this weekend (no garage...    )

[c1fer]

Can you make it still more simple?

I added LED turn signals to the rear of my 1999 Monster M900. OEM Front signals. The flashers were fast. I left it that way until I can add the front ones.

Now, its not working at all. I am about to buy some Resistors.

I read on another post that I just have to do one set, front or back. So I will install the resistors under the seat.

1. How many will I need?
2. If it is ONE resistor per side. is the installation like this???
|| Black Bike Wire |to| Resistor wire 1 | Resistor wire |to| Black wire on LED|| for one Blinker...

Is this what you meant by <You want to hook 1 end of the resistor to 1 wire, and the other end of the resistor to the other wire.>

Thanks

okay..maybe this is overkill, but i thought i would just verify that i'm on the right track here before i go trying to hook things up on my bike and potentially do something incorrectly.  are the parts below what i'm looking for, and second, is it as simple as just taking one end of one resistor, and that goes to the wire from the bike, and the other end goes to the blinker?


back of resistor package:

[carbmon]

You could forget all the hassle of heat-generating / power-robbing resistors and just install a blinker that works with LEDS.

I've been able to get one for all my bikes swapped to LED turns that works correctly and is a direct pin-match from the selection at www.superbrightleds.com (click the link to go directly to the LED-compatible flasher spec page on that site).

[c1fer]

Thanks. As soon as I posted the last request, I was able to find other posts about switching the Blinkers relays. And I did stumpble upon the exact link you left.

I'll take a look tomorrow and see I need. I may try the local O'Reily's first before ordering.

[memper]

I had a similar problem. Solution: install an electric flasher bought at Pep Boys Auto. I then cut and capped the wire leading to the dash signal indicator light. Fast/weird blink solved.

[COP TZR]

I have an LED specific relay flasher if anyone needs it ($10).  I gave up on the LED's and resistors.  Those little bastards get super hot when in use.

[c1fer]

Now what? I ordered the correct fit flasher CF13GL-02 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher but now it has turned my lights into Emergency Flashers.

When I enable the Left or Right, all four lights flash. Its a nice regular steady blink, but its all four.

Any thoughts???

Should I just go with resistors?

Thanks

You could forget all the hassle of heat-generating / power-robbing resistors and just install a blinker that works with LEDS.

I've been able to get one for all my bikes swapped to LED turns that works correctly and is a direct pin-match from the selection at www.superbrightleds.com (click the link to go directly to the LED-compatible flasher spec page on that site).

[carbmon]

Looking at the wiring diagram for the '99 M900 and the schematic for the CF13GL-02 flasher, I agree that is the correct flasher assuming your wiring is all as original.

Memper's post where he says he cut the wires to the dash indicator is the tip ....

Your monster uses a single indicator on the dash for both left and right turn. That incandescent bulb 'bridges' the left/right circuits between the turn signal switch and the turn signals themselves and is likely the source of 'bleed' that causes all to flash when power is applied to either side.  if you pull the indicator bulb out of the instrument panel and it all works, there's your problem (you can't just disconnect the entire panel for the test because the 12v feed for the flashers comes through there).

You could either do what Memper did and eliminate the dash indicator (just leaving the bulb out would be cleaner and more reversable than cutting the wires) or you could maybe come up with a combination of diodes (one-way valves) in the indicator circuit that would let it all work together (I'd have to think a lot harder about that).

Bikes with separate left-right indicators on the dash don't have this issue 

[Howie]

A diode on each side to the flasher will do it.

[carbmon]

A diode on each side to the flasher will do it.

Umm, maybe, but the flasher interrupts the single 12v feed to the switch and the 'bridging' indicator lamp is between the individual 12v feeds to the L/R signals after (or maybe "at", depending on exaclty how the harness is constructed) the switch, so I'm a bit doubtful that'll fix the '4-way flash syndrome'.

Maybe I'm not understanding exactly where you mean to insert the diodes.

I'd like to be wrong on that since your suggestion would be relatively easy ... have you done it?

I should have asked c1fer if his dash indicator is working at all when the 4-way flash occurs?  The LED's themselves may prevent completion of that circuit (the 'unactivated' turn signal acts as the ground side for the indicator in the OEM setup, through the turn signal bulb filament; with LEDs that circuit may not be able to complete; if both LT bulbs are pulled/blown in the OEM setup, the dash indicator won't light even when the surviving RT signals blink)

[Ddan]

[Howie]

Umm, maybe, but the flasher interrupts the single 12v feed to the switch and the 'bridging' indicator lamp is between the individual 12v feeds to the L/R signals after (or maybe "at", depending on exaclty how the harness is constructed) the switch, so I'm a bit doubtful that'll fix the '4-way flash syndrome'.

Maybe I'm not understanding exactly where you mean to insert the diodes.

I'd like to be wrong on that since your suggestion would be relatively easy ... have you done it?

I should have asked c1fer if his dash indicator is working at all when the 4-way flash occurs?  The LED's themselves may prevent completion of that circuit (the 'unactivated' turn signal acts as the ground side for the indicator in the OEM setup, through the turn signal bulb filament; with LEDs that circuit may not be able to complete; if both LT bulbs are pulled/blown in the OEM setup, the dash indicator won't light even when the surviving RT signals blink)

Doh!  I meant to the indicator.   DMFerFKPs diagram is correct.