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Resealing The Porch Deck

Started by RAT900, October 27, 2011, 02:29:47 PM

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RAT900

5 years later the wood porch deck is showing some bad weathering and wear at the outside ends

Tongue & Groove Clear Heart Pine kilned to low moisture........ we put it down after we leveled the house

We used some crap Big Box Sealant Stain  "Opaque"...it never really got into the wood and opaque my ass

cheap-ass thin red-brown paint that obscured the nice figure in the wood and did little else

So I am here for another week or so and figured I have to address the deck

I don't want to go with gray porch paint yet and am wondering if anyone has found a decent sealant that REALLY WORKS

"opaque" is fine since the deck is now a mix of worn see-thru and solid "opaque brown"

I don't want to sand it as there are some curled planks and I am hesitant to thin the groove down and create a future split and splinter festival

Any experience or success stories are welcomed
TIA
RAT
This is an insult to the Pez community

ducatiz

did you have at least 30 dry days before applying it?
Check out my oil filter forensics thread!                     Offended? Click here
"Yelling out of cars, turning your speakers out the window to blast your music onto the street, setting off M-80 firecrackers, firing automatic weapons into the airâ€"these are all well and good. But none of them create a merry atmosphere of insouciance and bonhomie quite like a revving motorcycle.

rgramjet

Heart pine needs a barrier type finish if you want it to last outside.  Either paint or an exterior clear finish of your choosing. 

Im assuming you used a solid color or semi transparent stain/sealer.......more than likely a water based product??  I have yet to use one that holds up like good ole oil based shit used to.....
Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
-Sofadriver

What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!

The Architect

+1. What rg said.

I'd try this stuff first.

http://m.superdeck.com/superdeck_prods/Transparent-Stain-Sealer/description.html
I've had some luck with it.  It does penetrate the wood.

Good luck.  The products today aren't what they used to be.

The Architect

Quote from: RAT900 on October 27, 2011, 02:29:47 PM

I don't want to sand it as there are some curled planks and I am hesitant to thin the groove down and create a future split and splinter festival


The boards are probably curling because only one side has been treated?  The bottom side is probably swelling from the moisture below.

I would oil it and see how it reacts.


RAT900

Quote from: The Architect on October 29, 2011, 04:31:19 AM
The boards are probably curling because only one side has been treated?  The bottom side is probably swelling from the moisture below.

I would oil it and see how it reacts.



yup that is likely part of the issue...

the stone and mortar porch foundation walls have vent grates and the floor is dirt so I dare say the untreated underside is also part of my problem with moisture

I would not go through the access space (in the dirt cellar) between the house foundation and the porch foundation for all the money in the world  a 600 lbs. Jabba the Rat probably lives there and I am not sure it would yield any dividends to try to undercoat the deck at this point

.........Although this IS Asheville and there is probably someone willling to go in there for a price with a brush and a bucket of some sort of stabilizing juice....

but you're right I need to swell the topsides of the planks and that might reduce the curl some....any thoughts on pre-prep and a viable deck surface juice to use? 

I know it has to be a breathing finish which is why I am hesitant to use gray porch paint
This is an insult to the Pez community

RAT900

It is topics like porch and deck sealant that make me hate the internet.....

been researching myself on the topic into an advanced state of utter uncertainty and doubt
This is an insult to the Pez community

rgramjet

Go Gray. 

With pine, "breathing" finish is the problem.  The flooring needs to be sealed so that daily surface temp swings and moisture changes are minimized.  Every seam will hold moisture and the end grain will soak of up like a sponge......

Sand that F-er, apply two coats of OIL based primer and two top coats of the gray stuff.  Make sure its as dry as possible first.


Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
-Sofadriver

What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!

RAT900

Quote from: rgramjet on October 30, 2011, 05:07:00 AM
Go Gray. 

With pine, "breathing" finish is the problem.  The flooring needs to be sealed so that daily surface temp swings and moisture changes are minimized.  Every seam will hold moisture and the end grain will soak of up like a sponge......

Sand that F-er, apply two coats of OIL based primer and two top coats of the gray stuff.  Make sure its as dry as possible first.




Are we talking gray deck paint like Valspar or one of the solid "stains"?....

A solid light gray would certainly help with the inherent darkness inside the house that the porch roof creates

Wife prefers the "wood" color but personally gray to me is what would be "period correct" for this old barn for humans
This is an insult to the Pez community

rgramjet

No more stain.  Go Alkyd paint!  Benjamin Moore makes a great porch paint.   In my commie county they don't sell it by the gallon anymore.  Not sure if they will in your area.

Make sure you wash it down first with a mild bleach or TSP solution to kill any mold......use one or the other, don't mix.  Let it dry for several days before priming.

If there are any big gaps or cracks, caulk in between primer coats.

Good luck!
Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
-Sofadriver

What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!

Popeye the Sailor

Are you sure it's not just condensation?  :P
If the state had not cut funding for the mental institutions, this project could never have happened.

The Architect

Don't paint one side, it'll make the cupping worse.





Quote from: peeny on October 30, 2011, 08:15:23 AM
Are you sure it's not just condensation?  :P

You had mentioned the skylights in your post, are those operable skylights?   You might want to consider closing them when it rains.  ;)


rat, sorry for the thread jack, I couldn't resist. 

RAT900

Quote from: The Architect on October 31, 2011, 04:16:08 AM

rat, sorry for the thread jack, I couldn't resist. 

no problem, I am a chronic threadjacker myself... how could I possibly object?
This is an insult to the Pez community

rgramjet

Laying some plastic/poly vapor barrier over the bare ground will reduce the moisture source.  Make sure vents are clear.

Every seam in a blowing rain will allow moisture to penetrate.  Well applied paint or a barrier finish will prevent moisture intrusion. 

Id be curious as to what a moisture meter currently reads on the flooring, topside and underside.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
-Sofadriver

What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!