Is anyone familiar with a 1985 Harley-Davidson Sportster XLX

[eichh]

I came across a 1985 Harley-Davidson Sportster XLX for $3000 in the area and it looks to be in great shape from what I saw in pictures on the dudes phone. The top half of the engine has been gone through such as pistons and what not. I will go look at it on Sunday and buy it if all is well. My question is what should I look for on this year and make of bike? Harleys are new to me but for the price its perfect to get cut up and turned into the cafe/brat/board track looking bike ive always wanted to build. Aside from the "its a Harley" comments does anyone have any experience and knowledge about this model? I dont have any pictures to post of it.

Thanks,
Erik

[muskrat]

make sure the cylinders are both firing, I've heard they some had issues.  Also, clutch cable and oil leak around the transmission.  Not giving you a hard time as I too have a Harley albeit an 09.  I would offer 2500 if it were me and rest assured there are parts galore.  You wouldn't believe the after market on these bikes.

[Slide Panda]

If you can strip off enough weight, it might be interesting. But it's a 540 pound bike, rated at 49 hp (when new) and a 4 speed trans. In it's present configuration, it's going to feel ver short legged.

[eichh]

Thanks,  I will shoot the cylinders with a temp gun to check for inconsistencies I'm looking to do something similar to this setup.

http://s201.beta.photobucket.com/user/chiflado/media/8f60deb9c2bdd19bf77e2cb242661acf.jpg.html

So im going to strip it as much as possible, its been punched out with 10:1 pistons and cams but its still going to be a dog next to the Duc or Busa. It does have the standard issue oily discharge but low and slow might be nice every once in a while. Here's what it looks like now.

xlx by erik.eichhorn, on Flickr

[muskrat]

who cares if it's slow, purpose is what you're after.  Good luck and post progress pics, maybe I'll get inspired.

[eichh]

Progress so far.
I made a 1/4" steel jig to hold the frame square and in place while i cut the frame.
I then lowered the frame rails 3 1/2" and removed the jig.
The last photo shows the small rear fender that will be welded to the frame so there wont be any seams.
I put some plate steel on the frame rails that drop down where the oil tank used to be since I wont be running a traditional fender, just to keep chunky chow from flinging all over the new oil tank and electronics.
I got tons of welding to get done today and will post again once the sheet metal work is done.
So far so good I love the way I sit nice and low.

[koko64]

You'll have fun.

Still an iron head in 83. They went to alloy on the sporty in 85? Cant remember because I was there! Better run an oil cooler, cant tell on my phone if it has one. Make sure the genny is working well. I had a 75 model, you could cook your dinner on the heads in summer. These things had a form of cassette type gearbox. Was it a Trog or Troog gearbox "door" you could get?
With high comp you need an oil cooler unless you live in Alaska. Use the correct ,high quality oil.

I still want to find an XR or KR 750 in some farmers barn..
Ive had three Harleys, but the Sportster was the most fun..
Memories.

[Speedbag]

I like where this is going.  

Ironhead engine was around until the '86 model year.

+1 on the oil cooler.

[eichh]

Ok the fender is all welded up and the turn signal holes are drilled. Next I need to find out how small of a lithiun battery I can get away with. I am short on room so its between the 8 or 12 cell. I had an 8 in my S4 Monster that worked great, I believe the 8 had 210 cca and the 12 had 510 cca or something like that. I cant imagine this motor is harder to turn over than the Monster right? Once the battery is figured out the welding is done and I can get some paint on it and begin to rewire it. I picked up a Badlands module so I can use the 2 rear light as running, brake and turn signals. Let me know your opinions on the battery. It has a tiny oil cooler on it but I was thinking I can configure one to be incorperated with the front scoop thing that goes in the front of the bike twards the bottom of the frame. I dont know what they are called exactly besides a front scoop thingy I figure heat sinks can be added and possibly hold another 1/2 to full quart of oil if I design it as a crazy shaped oil tank. I have to do some research on that first.

[Speedbag]

I'd go with the bigger battery....

[Kev M]

Ok the fender is all welded up and the turn signal holes are drilled. Next I need to find out how small of a lithiun battery I can get away with. I am short on room so its between the 8 or 12 cell. I had an 8 in my S4 Monster that worked great, I believe the 8 had 210 cca and the 12 had 510 cca or something like that. I cant imagine this motor is harder to turn over than the Monster right?

BIG heavy crankshaft/flywheel assembly, knife-fork rod assembly, staggered cylinder timing means it takes a lot of amps to start cranking over a Harley motor. I get the impression our Duc spins up a lot quicker/easier than our Harleys have.

I too would say go with the bigger battery.

[Raux]

not to second guess your work which is really cool.
but have you thought about making your seat/fender into the actual oil tank and get rid of that round tank?
and be able to fit the larger battery

[SpikeC]

 Tat might make for a rather hot butt!

[Raux]

Tat might make for a rather hot butt!

how is that different than a duc sbk 

[Speedbag]

BIG heavy crankshaft/flywheel assembly, knife-fork rod assembly, staggered cylinder timing means it takes a lot of amps to start cranking over a Harley motor. I get the impression our Duc spins up a lot quicker/easier than our Harleys have.

I too would say go with the bigger battery.

Yes, again.

I recall reading once that stroker big twins can require as much cranking power as a small block Chevy V8.

You have a stock ironhead Sporty, but the facts mentioned above remain. These are beasts to spin over, as any kick-only Harley owner (myself included) will attest to.