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Truckers Monster Rebuild

Started by truckinduc, July 13, 2008, 12:33:26 PM

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dbran1949

Quote from: truckinduc on November 01, 2010, 10:33:01 PM
Yep with glass bead.  Not sure what the final finish will be, something cheap, probably paint.

low gloss clear just to inhibit oxidation it would be a shame to cover those

truckinduc

Quote from: Rameses on November 02, 2010, 12:26:12 AM

Have you not cut the clamps yet or is there something I'm missing in the pics?



No your not missing anything. Ill cut them today.


Im thinking about some flat clear spray paint I have. I plan on engraving something on the lower triple If I can get it in a DXF file.

ducpainter

Quote from: truckinduc on November 02, 2010, 08:50:46 AM
No your not missing anything. Ill cut them today.


Im thinking about some flat clear spray paint I have. I plan on engraving something on the lower triple If I can get it in a DXF file.

Good luck with adhesion/corrosion resistance on un-etched aluminum.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”



truckinduc

Eccentric swingarm jig blanks



And valve cover begenning. Its now structrual.




truckinduc

So I was having trouble with the frame - engine alignment for the swingarm pivot.  All seemed well for a while then the pivot just froze in place.  I tried heating and bending but I never could get it quite right. So In fristration I just cut the mounts off.  The I discover the pivot bolt is bent. No wonder....

But Its a good thing I cut them off because I can start fresh.  Then I thought to myself, Hmm I should make the swingarm pivot adjustable, just like the SBK models, only better. I was out somewhere when this occured to me so I sketched it on a shop towel. 

Then I made them.




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I have never seen this on a modern ducati.









I still have to make the inner bearing races and press them on to the aluminum pieces.  Anyone know a good place to buy bearings? Everywhere local wants an arm and a leg. 

I need,  1.25" ID x 1.5" OD x  .75" width needle bearings. 3 of them

           1.25" ID x 1.5" OD x  1"   One of these


Ahks

newbie question m8
wtf is that? :)

gatorgrizz27

Awesome fab work in this project, looks like your skills have come a long way  [thumbsup]

One suggestion for the swingarm pivots would be notches in the frame sleeve and then one in the inner bushing to help with alignment from side to side.  Keep it up.

dvyce

Everyone in this thread stand up and salute this man.  On my way to ring shop for my girl and I came across this tread.  Put it this way, you prolly just put an end to this union before it even started with this thread.  I am 30 and always wanted to do stuff like this but I traveled and moved around too much to have a place to work from.  Love your work and how everyone in here supports.  effin good stuff. Best tread i ever seen.

Raux

Quote from: dvyce on November 05, 2010, 08:42:53 AM
... you prolly just put an end to this union before it even started with this thread.  ...

Story? start your own thread, would love to read that.

MotoCreations

I've seen the adjustable setup on a few Ducati racebikes previously -- not for the street itself.

I've offset bore the cases and then spacer / eccentric to get my DesmoDevil's lower than you can with the factory swingarm pivot point location.  I had to do to get chain travel on the underside of the swingarm!  But if you measure out the sprocket location, swingarm pivot itself and the rear hub location in terms of geometry -- it's almost factory setup in regard to torque application via centerline measurement.

One thing to be aware of is that changing the swingarm pivot point can do some interesting things ala geometry / torque application to the rear hub due to the chain.  Also your shock geometry can change also when moving things around quite a bit.  You are generally fairly safe if you move the swingarm pivot down when you move the rear hub down (ie: raise the ride height).  Conversely the same for moving pivot up and rear hub higher (like my DesmoDevils)

I'd avoid extreme setups ala raised swingarm pivot and moving hub down (more ride height) -- things might get interesting when you least expect it.

Definitely do reading on rear suspension squat / anti-squat, etc -- it isn't difficult to change things that aren't great for a street ridden motorcycle.

Also understand that rear suspension setup / geometry affects front suspension as well. 

truckinduc


truckinduc

Quote from: gatorgrizz27 on November 05, 2010, 08:26:22 AM
Awesome fab work in this project, looks like your skills have come a long way  [thumbsup]

One suggestion for the swingarm pivots would be notches in the frame sleeve and then one in the inner bushing to help with alignment from side to side.  Keep it up.


Thank you. and on the note of alignment, the clamps are not done. they get one more special feature to index them evenly - lock them in place.
Quote from: dvyce on November 05, 2010, 08:42:53 AM
Everyone in this thread stand up and salute this man.  On my way to ring shop for my girl and I came across this tread.  Put it this way, you prolly just put an end to this union before it even started with this thread.  I am 30 and always wanted to do stuff like this but I traveled and moved around too much to have a place to work from.  Love your work and how everyone in here supports.  effin good stuff. Best tread i ever seen.

Thank you and your welcome I guess. Dont let me break anything good up. But if its bad Ill take full credit. Speaking of which Im about to attempt to make my girl a Titanium ring for a christmas present. I wonder if she is suspicious when I mike'd her ring she normally wears.

Quote from: MotoCreations on November 05, 2010, 01:28:40 PM
I've seen the adjustable setup on a few Ducati racebikes previously -- not for the street itself.

I've offset bore the cases and then spacer / eccentric to get my DesmoDevil's lower than you can with the factory swingarm pivot point location.  I had to do to get chain travel on the underside of the swingarm!  But if you measure out the sprocket location, swingarm pivot itself and the rear hub location in terms of geometry -- it's almost factory setup in regard to torque application via centerline measurement.

One thing to be aware of is that changing the swingarm pivot point can do some interesting things ala geometry / torque application to the rear hub due to the chain.  Also your shock geometry can change also when moving things around quite a bit.  You are generally fairly safe if you move the swingarm pivot down when you move the rear hub down (ie: raise the ride height).  Conversely the same for moving pivot up and rear hub higher (like my DesmoDevils)

I'd avoid extreme setups ala raised swingarm pivot and moving hub down (more ride height) -- things might get interesting when you least expect it.

Definitely do reading on rear suspension squat / anti-squat, etc -- it isn't difficult to change things that aren't great for a street ridden motorcycle.

Also understand that rear suspension setup / geometry affects front suspension as well. 

yes.  I have been doing alot of research and design work to get this bike how I want it.  When I de radke the forks there is a reason I modified the frame to get the rake number I wanted, instead of rotating the entire frame - engine forward.  The engine is still relitavly close to the stock orientation. Right now I have a base 12.5 swingarm angle with a little adjustability.

Im still torn between swingarm length and wheelbase. thus why I have not actually built the swingarm yet.

LA

Lookn' good Trucker!   [thumbsup] [drink]

I'm depressed.

LA

"I'm leaving this one totally stock" - Full Termi kit, Ohlins damper, Pazzo levers, lane splitters, 520 quick change 14/43 gears, DP gold press plate w/open cover, Ductile iron rotors w/cp211 pads.

R90S (hot rod), 80-900SS, Norton 850 MkIII, S4RS

Howley

Quote from: truckinduc on November 04, 2010, 10:29:11 PM




Why does it look like the frame doesn't line up with the adjuster clamps?

DucHead

'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"