cheap brake rotors?

[brecchi]

nedd to replace mine for inspection. 01 900 dark. dont care about weight, etc. just need non warped ones that will fit and pass inspection. thanks, brecchi

[The Architect]

Are you sure they're warped?  I thought mine were warped to until I bed them in.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

There's an article I read that discribed the warped disk feeling from uneven deposit on the disks.  It also discussed how in so many years of brake work, the author has never seen real warped disks.  I can't find the article 

[aaronb]

used sets on ebay go for cheap.  but that's a bit risky

[supertjeduc]

I bought some on ebay ,thought they were by braking ,but they were chinese
You can buy them from me for 130$ incl shipping

[The Architect]

Have you measured the disk thickness'?

[The Architect]

Found the article.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

You may want to read this before buying new rotors.

[tangueroHondo]

Found the article.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

You may want to read this before buying new rotors.

Quote from this really great artlcle: "...As an example, during the mid 1960s, those of us at Shelby American did not drive GT 350 or GT 500 Mustangs as company cars simply because they were equipped with Raybestos M-19 racing pads and none of our wives could push on the brake pedal hard enough to stop the car in normal driving."

The guy has to be kiding us.  How about, "Ah, Hon....My new GT 500 is my company car and you can't drive it."  End of story.

[dlearl476]

Found the article.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml#

You may want to read this before buying new rotors.

Good article:

PREVENTION

There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

This is really easy to accomplish with a motorcycle as the front and rear brakes are separate.  I usually don't fret too much about bedding in the rears, but hey, nothing like a good excuse for some full throttle/full brake 0-60-0 runs on a bike, eh.   

"Honest officer, I was just bedding in my brakes like in the instruction manual."   

[venomousr1993]

I know I am not much help, but CHEAP and BRAKES do not go well to gether in my book.  Just my .02

[bdfinally]

nedd to replace mine for inspection. 01 900 dark. dont care about weight, etc. just need non warped ones that will fit and pass inspection. thanks, brecchi

PM m9hundo, he told me yesterday he had several.

[brecchi]

cool, thanks for all the advice guys. im gonna decide exactly what to get in the near future. it turns out i may just need the rotors soaked and cleaned really well as the problem may be that they are sticking a little and losing their "floating" capability