clutch not engaging...

[dontbesojumpy]

after many issues, i've got a new clutch in my duc monster 620. however it wont engage.
the pushrod IS activating when you pull the lever and is for sure moving the pressure plates. you can find neutral and the tranny (or clutch?) even "pops" when you hit first like it normally would. but you let off the lever and it just wont go. no matter what gear you pop it into, it will not go, it's just like everything is neutral.

does anyone have any ideas what's wrong?

[Ddan]

There is a reference mark on your pressure plate that needs to line up with the post with the slot cut in it.  If that's good, your PP may be hanging up on the outside edge of the basket.

[Slide Panda]

There is a reference mark on your pressure plate that needs to line up with the post with the slot cut in it.  If that's good, your PP may be hanging up on the outside edge of the basket.

He's got a 620.  It won't be so easy for him to check that since it's sealed.

after many issues, i've got a new clutch in my duc monster 620. however it wont engage.
the pushrod IS activating when you pull the lever and is for sure moving the pressure plates. you can find neutral and the tranny (or clutch?) even "pops" when you hit first like it normally would. but you let off the lever and it just wont go. no matter what gear you pop it into, it will not go, it's just like everything is neutral.

does anyone have any ideas what's wrong?

Well, is the push rod pushing the piston in the slave back in when you let off the lever?  On my 900 I installed some new levers and adjusted the the small push rod in the Master as part of the job.  I *adjusted* it too much, and it restricted the fluid return port in the master.  The result was that when I pulled my clutch lever, the pressure plate would return very slowly and with repeated pulls moved further out each time, due to the slow return.
This also had the side effect that because the pressure plate moved out so far, it allowed one of the friction plates to get out of the basket

So - Have you messed with your levers or masters recently? 

Are you sure the push rod is coming back when you let of the lever out?

[Ddan]

He's got a 620.  It won't be so easy for him to check that since it's sealed.

Well, is the push rod pushing the piston in the slave back in when you let off the lever?  On my 900 I installed some new levers and adjusted the the small push rod in the Master as part of the job.  I *adjusted* it too much, and it restricted the fluid return port in the master.  The result was that when I pulled my clutch lever, the pressure plate would return very slowly and with repeated pulls moved further out each time, due to the slow return.
This also had the side effect that because the pressure plate moved out so far, it allowed one of the friction plates to get out of the basket

So - Have you messed with your levers or masters recently? 

Are you sure the push rod is coming back when you let of the lever out?

True enough.  I assumed when the OP said he was sure the PP was moving he could see it...

[dontbesojumpy]

i didnt line anything up.

the rod is pushing the plates out and going back (when the springs are on and tight of course)

i checked these things before getting the oil case back on.

i did NOT, however, line anything up. so let's you, me, and everyone else ask Jesus to let this be the problem.

[dontbesojumpy]

so ok, no.

that didnt fix it.

a quick rundown of the situation, i hope you can get me back on the road soon.

my posts broke off on my old clutch sitting in traffic. i assume from casting failure or too tight springs.

i finally got this clutch installed (after the other new one broke because of an errant screw, after welding a clutch tool, after getting the broken hex bold from the stripped spring...etc etc etc nightmare)

the clutch lever engages the clutch--double checked before putting the cover on. can shift through the gears with the clutch. basically everything seems to be working right, only when i let off the clutch, it wont go.

i dont know what bleeding the cable line does but it seems that everything is working too properly for that. do i have too many plates on, or too few, or could that be an issue?

[Ddan]

I just read through your posts on the clutch saga, and it seems to me you have something wrong that you haven't figured out yet.  They're fairly simple set-ups and you shouldn't be having this kind of issue unless there were some other problem.   

http://www.ducati.com/bikes/catalogs.jhtml  will get you a schematic.

To answer your question, yes the number of plates will affect the clutch, too few and the clutch won't engage.  If you put the same plates back in, in the same order that they came out, that shouldn't be the problem.

I agree, right now it doesn't seem as if bleeding the line would help, but, as Yuu pointed out above, if you 'adjusted' the screw on the lever that could be your problem.

[dontbesojumpy]

i didnt mess with any of the lever screws or lines or anything else.

and i agree--it SHOULD be more straightforward. it's my second clutch install, too--so it's not my first rodeo.

something's wong that i dont know what...

[Howie]

Measure stack height.  That is the thickness of all the drive plates. 
Measure the spring length and make sure they are not distorted.
Confirm the pushrod and slave are returning to the engaged position.
Make sure the plates are not hanging in the basket.
Check all part numbers on the parts you replaced to make sure they are correct.
If your clutch is an APC unit (AFAIK, if the bike is a six speed it is) check the operation of the slipper device.
Again, check pressure plate orientation.

Someone else will have to give you stack height and spring length specs.

Get someone to work with you.  Sometimes finding something wrong or missed yourself is like proof reading your own writing.  It just doesn't always work.

[dontbesojumpy]

Measure stack height.  That is the thickness of all the drive plates. 
Measure the spring length and make sure they are not distorted.
Confirm the pushrod and slave are returning to the engaged position.
Make sure the plates are not hanging in the basket.
Check all part numbers on the parts you replaced to make sure they are correct.
If your clutch is an APC unit (AFAIK, if the bike is a six speed it is) check the operation of the slipper device.
Again, check pressure plate orientation.

Someone else will have to give you stack height and spring length specs.

Get someone to work with you.  Sometimes finding something wrong or missed yourself is like proof reading your own writing.  It just doesn't always work.

how do i go abouts checking the slave position?

[Howie]

how do i go abouts checking the slave position?

Since I doubt there is a spec and it is unlikely the piston returns all the way I can think of two ways. both not exact and made up by me

1.  Put the bike on a rear stand.  Remove slave.  Insure Have an assistant hold the bike since it may jump around.  Start the bike in gear.  Apply rear brake until rear wheel stops turning.  Bike will stall if the clutch engages.

2.  When the clutch is...ah, forget this one, I don't think it will work.

If you can find a spec for push rod travel, measure.

[Hank]

You're using oil designed for wet clutches, aren't you?
(stupid question, but you never know)