Quote from: memper on March 18, 2013, 06:30:57 PM
It occurd to me that it might be wise to check the sending unit. Its from '96. Do they go bad? How would I go about checking for continuity?

Senders go bad regularly.

Point it so the wires are up. You should have infinite resistance.

Turn it over...you should have continuity.

It tests fine. Thanks. One thing I noticed was that the monster fuel connector to harness has only two wires. A light signal and a line to the fuses n what not. The ss connector off the tank has 4: a ground, a light signal, and two others going to the fuses and other components.
I recon the  pump alone needs a ground and probably the red/black wire.



Im honestly not all that concerned about having a fuel light, however it will be necessary to have power to the pump. Anyone mind clarifying?:,

Quote from: memper on March 19, 2013, 05:00:41 AM
It tests fine. Thanks. One thing I noticed was that the monster fuel connector to harness has only two wires. A light signal and a line to the fuses n what not. The ss connector off the tank has 4: a ground, a light signal, and two others going to the fuses and other components.

Im honestly not all that concerned about having a fuel light, however it will be necessary to have power to the pump. Anyone mind clarifying?:,

The other two wires are for the pump, obviously. One power and one ground

You can feed the pump from any switched source, like the fuel light circuit, or you can add an inline fuse off the main power relay that feeds the fuse box. I'd feed it separately because the pump load might be a bit much for the light circuit.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your bike?

If not, you can use the diagram from almost any carbed monster to figure out where things are.

Sounds good. I have a Haynes manual for the monster and ss so all diagrams are there. I will just take a look at what amp fuse is listed for the pump and wire it in.

Quote from: ducpainter on March 19, 2013, 05:34:50 AM
You can feed the pump from any switched source, like the fuel light circuit, or you can add an inline fuse off the main power relay that feeds the fuse box. I'd feed it separately because the pump load might be a bit much for the light circuit.

On the main power wire that feeds the fuse box (a big red one I believe), can I just cut the insulation off about 1/2" and then solder on the new fused wire leading to the fuel sensor>fuel pump? Then protect the union of course...
Which reminds me, I need to buy more flux.

Quote from: memper on March 21, 2013, 04:54:42 AM
On the main power wire that feeds the fuse box (a big red one I believe), can I just cut the insulation off about 1/2" and then solder on the new fused wire leading to the fuel sensor>fuel pump? Then protect the union of course...
Which reminds me, I need to buy more flux.

You could...you'd have to seal/insulate it back up.

You could also use a blank spot in the fuse panel on the power side...I think there's an empty spot. You'd have to check to see if it's fed.

You should be using rosin core solder for electrical work. Don't use acid flux, or acid core solder.

Quote from: ducpainter on March 21, 2013, 05:30:24 AM
You could...you'd have to seal/insulate it back up.

You could also use a blank spot in the fuse panel on the power side...I think there's an empty spot. You'd have to check to see if it's fed.

You should be using rosin core solder for electrical work. Don't use acid flux, or acid core solder.

Fuse spot is open but its not fed. I'll figger something out. As for my solder I just have the kind you can get at Radio aShack. I figure if its good for motherboards its probably fine for cycles.

Some seat modification... Its actually much more comfortable than stock. And even though it looks like I'd slide my nuts into the tank it doesnt happen. But we'll see during a hard stop  .
Note that this is just in the interim until I can make a proper "cafe" type seating with a fiberglass tail section.

That OEM fuel pump just arrived. It lacks that baggie thing for catching large debris. Do I need it really?
I figure I dont especially since I have clear access to the tank and can get it really clean before the full install.

Quote from: memper on March 22, 2013, 01:55:47 PM
That OEM fuel pump just arrived. It lacks that baggie thing for catching large debris. Do I need it really?
I figure I dont especially since I have clear access to the tank and can get it really clean before the full install.

Is the pre-filter necessary?  My vote: yes.  Take the pump to an auto parts store that's of a higher caliber than your local Zone of Auto and have them see if they can fit a pre-filter from an automotive application. 

But, it's your call.  Pump could last forever like that...  I've never ran w/o one.

Quote from: memper on March 12, 2013, 12:28:58 PM
True. The sending unit might be in there still. Didnt ask. Seems like the internal route is more complicated but cleaner looking. Yes, when the tank gets here I will asses what to do.
On another note someone was asking about my dash area. So here are some pics of that cobbled arrangement. I plan to make a nicer bracket when time allows...The little light is for fuel level.

I like that gauge Stu put on Warrens Bike it was super clean.

Quote from: Duck-Stew on March 22, 2013, 02:42:39 PM
Is the pre-filter necessary?  My vote: yes.  Take the pump to an auto parts store that's of a higher caliber than your local Zone of Auto and have them see if they can fit a pre-filter from an automotive application. 

But, it's your call.  Pump could last forever like that...  I've never ran w/o one.

+1...not worth the chance.

If you can't find one let me know...I might be able to get my hands on a used one cheap.

I gotta make a trip to NAPA anyways. Hopefully they will have something I can use. Thanks guys

Havent been to NAPA yet but I went to three auto supply stores and there seems to be a massive shortage of 5/16" fuel line (for going to the carbs). I guess thats what happens in the ghetto of Brooklyn, lol.

http://vimeo.com/10089801