Also interesting:  The 1100evo motor has a lash adjuster built into the primary gear...  Hadn't seen that before on a Duc.  It's for noise regulations.

Quote from: Duck-Stew on November 19, 2013, 03:27:07 PM
Also interesting:  The 1100evo motor has a lash adjuster built into the primary gear...  Hadn't seen that before on a Duc.  It's for noise regulations.

The tensioner on the crank gear? I thought it was odd too.

Okay I have discovered this is there on wet clutch bikes and is called the clutch fluid flow rate adjusting valve. This this not present on the dry clutch bikes.

So my question is if I plug this hole with a screw that it's not going to starve any of the gears on the input shaft.

And as far as a screw to plug this hole, does anyone know of anything that can be used? My searching is coming up short.

That is the screw.  I could send a photo of the one that is too long for our bikes but it is basically a screw with the end machined into a point to restrict the flow of oil where that valve used to be.  The screw replaces that entire valve assembly.

Quote from: hackers2r on November 19, 2013, 08:51:54 PM
That is the screw.  I could send a photo of the one that is too long for our bikes but it is basically a screw with the end machined into a point to restrict the flow of oil where that valve used to be.  The screw replaces that entire valve assembly.

Do you know how long ours actually needs to be? Maybe some dimensions? Why does it come to a point?

Is there anything else that could be used to block that passage?

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I try to put it all together.

I don't know of what else could be used as the hole being blocked is at the bottom of a hole which is under pressure. As I remember it, the screw is the length of the old bolt and valve assembly together.  It's a pretty crude way of measuring it but mine is all assembled again otherwise I'd give you an exact length.  I believe there is someone on one of these forums who actually made a schematic of said screw.  Another option is to look for installs of the 848 dry clutch kit as they may have more details on the blockage.

Quote from: hackers2r on November 20, 2013, 05:55:57 AM
I don't know of what else could be used as the hole being blocked is at the bottom of a hole which is under pressure. As I remember it, the screw is the length of the old bolt and valve assembly together.  It's a pretty crude way of measuring it but mine is all assembled again otherwise I'd give you an exact length.  I believe there is someone on one of these forums who actually made a schematic of said screw.  Another option is to look for installs of the 848 dry clutch kit as they may have more details on the blockage.

Does the bolt have to be pointed? Is the hole that it threads into recessed at the end so that it sits flush?

I've done so much searching and haven't come across any kind of schematics for the screw. 

Does the point need to be a certain angle? And when you say the length of the valve. You mean the length of the screw, washer, spring, cap, and ball? And is this length with the spring compressed partially or fully?

The tip is meant to basically center itself in the hole at the bottom when tightened.  I would absolutely recommend it be pointed to achieve this.  I don't think the angle really matters though.  In terms of whether under compression when measuring, I honestly can't remember.  I will try to find some pictures of the said bolt for you so you can get an idea.

Quote from: hackers2r on November 20, 2013, 07:13:01 AM
The tip is meant to basically center itself in the hole at the bottom when tightened.  I would absolutely recommend it be pointed to achieve this.  I don't think the angle really matters though.  In terms of whether under compression when measuring, I honestly can't remember.  I will try to find some pictures of the said bolt for you so you can get an idea.

I would really appreciate it.

Update:

Got my primary gear tool and was pretty upset it didn't actually fit. The inner diameter was correct, the teeth width were correct but the outside of the teeth was off. .25mm all the way around. So I had to grind it down to make it fit.



Once grinded, it fit right on. Secure the gear and loosen the ring nut. Do not remove it because now to gear needs to be pulled.



When that gear lets loose it makes quite the bang. I was expecting it and it still startled me.

Test fit of the new gears to make sure they mesh together and are within spec.

Noticed a parts install for 848 dry clutch conversion kit and figured it might be helpful. There's a link to the pdf on the last reply here. http://www.ducati.ms/forums/42-monster/71451-s2r-800-dry-clutch-conversion-2.html

Super excited to see how this turns out!

I should have some time today to get you a picture of that bolt.  Sorry about the delay.  You're making good progress though.  The only hiccup I've had was the nut that secures the clutch hub to the main shaft.  Took forever to get it done.  What are you using for this?

Quote from: hackers2r on November 24, 2013, 07:01:58 AM
I should have some time today to get you a picture of that bolt.  Sorry about the delay.  You're making good progress though.  The only hiccup I've had was the nut that secures the clutch hub to the main shaft.  Took forever to get it done.  What are you using for this?

It will end up having to be machined from the look of it.

Back on hold. Stuff just isn't working out. Too many little things.

If I pick this back up later, I'll update the thread. I would however advise that if you want a dry clutch; either buy one with it, buy the 848 kit, or split the cases.

There is a bushing that is supposed to go inside the the input shaft and a roller bearing with I-ring that WILL not fit a wet clutch input shaft. There's just too much custom one-off things that would need to be made to do this. And I'm not willing to do it.

The input shaft LENGTH is different AND the threads are different. 

In order to do this the most EFFICIENT way you will need the following:

Dry clutch gearbox (input and output shafts)
Dry clutch primaries
Basket
Plates
Hub
Pressure plate
Slave cylinder
Pushrod
Case cover

I may do it the legitimate way later on if I split the cases but the only reason I will split the cases is for a crank job; lightening and balancing plus hi-comp pistons.

Sorry to disappoint guys

Hi guys,

dry clutch on the Monster1100 Evo is possible... with the 848 kit as base, look here:

http://manutex.jimdo.com/ducati/ducati-monster-1100-evo/trockenkupplung/

Little video:

http://youtu.be/0Wp1Nau6pzQ

Cheers,
Manu