OEM Ducati bolts are made from cheese 

What kind?

Quote from: He Man on July 31, 2008, 02:57:00 PM
What kind?

Monsterella 

 

  You set him up real nice for that one.

Quote from: someguy on July 28, 2008, 07:29:38 PM
FYI from the engineering standpoint:
...
Stainless steel bolts: Not really all that much stronger than good grade 8 bolts. But a whole lot more expensive. Tits on a bull as well.

This is false, stainless bolts are at MOST on par with a grade 2 bolt.  Stainless hardware is hard and brittle, and will break before it stretches much.

Quote from: duckb0y on August 01, 2008, 09:50:33 PM
This is false, stainless bolts are at MOST on par with a grade 2 bolt.  Stainless hardware is hard and brittle, and will break before it stretches much.

Potato po-tah-toe.

Of the SAE Grades, Grade 8 is the strongest, with a tensile strength of 150,000 psi.

ARP supplies stainless bolts with tensile strengths in the neighbor-hood of 170,000 psi, and climb their way up from there.

Both 302 and 316 stainless have a tensile strength of 100,000 psi and yield strength of 65,000 psi, so if you want to call out cheap stainless sure, but in terms of the quality stuff, it *is* better fastener-which would be why those of us who work in aerospace will substitute it when titanium isn't available.


It's just excessive on a bike.

There was a thread on TOB, raising concerns that SS fasteners are subject to a form of embrittlement when exposed to any form of sodium chloride.

Quote from: someguy on July 29, 2008, 07:39:36 PM
There are *infinitely* more useful things to address before the weight of your bolts.

+1

Their relative strengths, for one. 


IMO, SS and Al are great for minimal stress, cosmetic uses.  Brake Rotors, not so much.  On a race bike where ounces count (and the bolts get changed every time the rotors do) sure.  A street bike.  No way.


And fwiw, Ducati uses locktite to put them on.  A heat gun and a gentle tap or two with the butt of your ratchet and they'll come right off.

Quote from: Capo on August 04, 2008, 02:05:03 AM
There was a thread on TOB, raising concerns that SS fasteners are subject to a form of embrittlement when exposed to any form of sodium chloride.

I would only worry about it if I were building a nuclear plant  that needs to last for a few hundred years.

Quote from: dlearl476 on August 04, 2008, 02:34:50 PM
+1

Their relative strengths, for one. 


IMO, SS and Al are great for minimal stress, cosmetic uses.  Brake Rotors, not so much.  On a race bike where ounces count (and the bolts get changed every time the rotors do) sure.  A street bike.  No way.


And fwiw, Ducati uses locktite to put them on.  A heat gun and a gentle tap or two with the butt of your ratchet and they'll come right off.

SS is great for minimal stress? Steel itself is a very high tensile meta. its not THE best, but i certianly would not put it in the same basket as aluminum. There are also many types of stainless steel used for varying applications from surgical tools to building sky scrapers. The stock bolts on the Ducati Rotors are also steel. I would not run aluminum on rotors, i dont see why running SS would be bad.

And as far as the rotors going, generally speaking a heat gun and a tap will work, but if its an outdoors bike with the elements attacking it 24/7. SS is the best metal to use for a reasonable price IMHO. I just looked at my rear rotors and theres also a salt film that has built up around the screw, screw head, and the rotor. All the bolts on my engine are the same.

Oh crap, I just wasted more money on the bike with more Ti fasteners

heel guard mounts (for my homemade heel guards
rad guard mounts (for my homemade rad guards)
Rear rotor mount bolts (for the lightweight rotor that is coming)
Front rotor bolts (just because I felt like it)
Front caliper mounting bolts (because the stock ones are huge)
Rear caliper mounting bolt (because I'm back there)
Rear caliper half joining bolt (because I like to waste money...otherwise I'd spend it on a big mac and get fat)
Swingarm brake line mounting thingy bolts (because the stock ones are twice as long as they should be, and again, why not?)

A whopping $100 on all of the above.   About 1/2 lb of rotating weight on the front, 1 1/2 lb of unsprung weight.

With the 520 chain thats laying around, and the quick change rear, along with the rear rotor, I might save ~3lbs of rotating weight on the rear end of the bike.

One day I'll buy some BST's 

OOOOOOOOR a slipper.....

I took 6 lbs of rotating mass off the crank...

I swear one day I will buy your Ti bolt kit

6 lbs off the crank?

What clutch did you have before?

What bike is it?

I have a S4Rs......my bad it was 5lbs....and I felt the stocker after it came out and the one that went in....HUGE difference