I know someone from ToB did this and wired garage door opener into their passing signal. Can that person post up on how they did it again please?

Here's the gadget I used:
http://www.autoswitch.com/2006/models/as5pg2/as5pg2_index.shtml
good place to get it: http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=ASG

You also will need a keychain size garage door remote appropriate for your opener.

This is how I did it following a post by Charlief on TOB.  I don't have any of the diagrams, though it's not too complicated.

The first step was having a remote control that operates on 12V, they can vary.  Take the remote apart so you just have the circuit board.  Since you're using the passing signal as the switch, you need to solder a wire between the two terminals of the button on the remote.

Next, take the battery out and solder a wire to each terminal of the battery slot.  These wires will go to the +/- of your high beams (watch the length to make sure you have enough wire).  In effect, this will be the same as holding the remote button down and inserting/removing the battery.  Make sure for your remote, this still operates the door as expected.

You might be able to trim away some excess circuit board here to make it compact as possible.  My remote was pretty small and I wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape so just the wires were coming out.

As mentioned, I installed mine on the +/- of the high beams which means if you're riding with the high beams on, the remote is getting a constant 12V.  I don't ride with them on too often, but the times that I did never seemed to cause an issue.

Mine is "installed" in the headlight bucket, behind the reflective cone part.  I unplugged the headlight, wrapped the wires from my remote onto the appropriate terminals, and plugged the headlight back in.  I put the headlight assembly back together with the remote just sitting inside.  After using it for a month or so, I opened it back up just to make sure there was no issues from the heat and everything was fine.

--MaxPower

PM Dietrich (hangs out in AZDRA)...

I'm very glad this was posted. I'm getting ready to install a garage door opener so it will be a big help in the spring.

One place I bought my spare remotes from was:

http://www.onlinedoorremotes.com/

Fair pricing.

I went with momentary micro switches on the S2R, and the larger momentary switches on my ST3.
Rigged in two remotes, one for home, one for security gate. Both bikes I stashed the remotes in the side panels. Opened each remote up and soldered wires that make up the switch contacts. Switches on the S2R are mounted on a piece of 3/4 inch aluminum that straddles the handle bar mounts on the top triple.

Any tips on how to decide which opener to get? I know the gate to my apt complex uses the old style remotes with about 8 switches inside but my garage door uses a chaimberlain 2 button remote that I can't figure out how to program. I'm thinking there must be some kind of signalling button on the main unit in the garage to program a new remote off of.

This is where you have to know what type of gate or garage door opener is being used.
And even then, you have to be aware of older gates/openers as manufacturers can have older dip switch remotes and newer multi code ones. Best sure fire way is to get a model number / manufacturer from an existing remote, then find it on the site I listed. They tended to have most any remote in both large and pendant sized. The pendant ones are just as easy to work with if you plan on soldering leads to "extend" the switch to a button on the bike. Many gated communities use the multicode remote, but like I said, it's better to have the right info so you don't waste fifteen bucks on something that wont work.

Luckily the site also has picture that show the remotes well enough that you may be able to do a visual match.

If I re-do my remotes, I would like to add an LED lighted switch and fork out for a good rubber insulated momentary switch. I had no problems with the larger one that radio shack sells, but the smaller one has such a short travel when pressing, I tend to get a double touch which starts and stops my garage door opener.

This is the large one I used on my ST3, got one red one black.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496

This is the small one I used on my S2R
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508

Another good supply are sites that sell marine supplies.

Seems like for your mod you're still using the battery that came w/ the remote and pretty much just extended the button up the control area?

A more expensive solution, but a few weeks ago I put a MotoFX garage door opener into my S2R.  I chose to wire it to the turn signals instead of the headlight since I could just tap into the cable bundle under the seat.

Cost me about $100 but it was pretty easy to install and works good.  I have a pretty old garage door opener so I didn't need the universal receiver (they'll try to sell you one by default.)

if this fits what you're looking for ... it is all rather easy to install.

I started with a programmable Genie Key Fob remote from Home Depot.  Cost was $20 and this one had 3 buttons although only one would be used for this application.

The pics below were taken years ago and I hop they help somewhat.

Step A.   Program romte button to your garage door.  Note which button you program.

Step B.  Take remote apart and remove battery.

Step C.  Grab beer

Step D.  Grab a soldering iron and remove programmed  button.  Red zip tie points to where button was....




Step E.  Flip remote over and solder a piece of wire across the mounting points of removed switch.  Again... fency red zip tie points to where the action is......



Step F.  Grab some wire and solder it to the battery tabs.  One on each side.  Take note that pos or neg will be moted on the board.  I'd say 6" inches should be enough.  (Please... no penis jokes)  Ok ok...go ahead. 



Step G.  Now strip the ends about an inch. 

Now you must decide where you want to mount this wonderful piece of craftsmanship.  I chose to use my hi beam flasher switch.  So I took the headlight off and got to the hi beam wiring.  Using a meter I found which wire supplied juice to the hi beam. 

I took the bullet connectors apart and inserted the stripped wires (from remote) to the correct wire in harness.  Positive to Positive... Neg to Neg. 



Connected the bullet connectors back together.  And you might have noticed the really cool duct tape wrap job.... ya super cool.



Now test.  Turn key on.... and using the flash open/close garage door....wow... like magic.

I've been running this way for years and have had no problems. 

Cost  maybe $22.37 plus your time. 

I hope this helps.  I had a 1/2 day today and was drinking...starting early as they say.  So if the above doesn't make sense... just know this... it does to me.

Charlief.......Dude, your a funny muthr fkr!  Great write up and you made it easy as pie.  I'm gonna go try this soon.  Thanks for the post

Lou

Any limits on what gauge wires I can use. Looks like Charlief used some pretty heavy gauge stuff but still used small gauge stuff to connected directly to the circuit board.

Quote from: erkishhorde on December 13, 2008, 10:09:14 AM
Any limits on what gauge wires I can use. Looks like Charlief used some pretty heavy gauge stuff but still used small gauge stuff to connected directly to the circuit board.

I just used what I had around on my bench.

Maybe 16g  no need to go any heavier.

I guess that's good to know that 12v won't blow out a remote that uses a lesser voltage battery.
And you are not limiting the voltage to the unit, correct?

If that's the case, I may hard wire mine into the bike as well. Great tidbit! Thanks!