Just seen this in the new issue of motorcyclist
http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/product/102102/102102__Flash2Pass_System_for_Motorcycle.html

seems like an easy install

Quote from: Ivan on May 10, 2009, 09:32:07 PM
I think that you'd be better off just buying a remote that is designed for 12V.

Or just leave the 9v on with the remote.  You gotta find somewhere to hide the PCB anyway.  Sure, the battery might need to get replaced in a few years, but that annoyance is minor compared to messing with all the other electrical stuff (IMO).

Needs a little more dremeling to get things flush...

i have experience with resistors, so i may try that. if i do keep the 9V in the remote, will i still be able to connect the switch to the high beam trigger?

Quote from: ducatitorrey on May 11, 2009, 03:17:11 AM
i have experience with resistors, so i may try that. if i do keep the 9V in the remote, will i still be able to connect the switch to the high beam trigger?

If you are not going to switch the power on & off to the remote, you'll need a dedicated switch without any voltage on it.  Think of it as another switch wired in parallel with the existing switch in your remote.  You could use your flash to pass switch, but you would need to disconnect it from your high beam circuit so that there is no voltage on it.

I was actually thinking about picking up one of these units.  The instruction manual is pretty concise and it looks really easy to use.  I did notice some problems with the potential pricing and the fact that they make a large amount of noise, even when not in use.

BMW F800S Garage Door Opener

Quote from: Jarvicious on May 11, 2009, 08:55:37 PM
I was actually thinking about picking up one of these units.  The instruction manual is pretty concise and it looks really easy to use.  I did notice some problems with the potential pricing and the fact that they make a large amount of noise, even when not in use.

BMW F800S Garage Door Opener

Lol, that's the third time that's been posted in the last month.

Yeah, but I didn't see it in this thread yet

I've used the MotoFX BIGDO opener on my Monster and the Flash2Pass opener on my R1150GS.  They're both pretty sweet. 

For the MotoFX I wired it into the wiring harness that runs under the seat to the tail light/blinkers and open the garage door with a quick left/right on the turn signals.  The downside to MotoFX is that it's expensive, the company you buy it from it totally unresponsive and it takes a long time to actually get your stuff in the mail.  If your garage door opener is older than 1997 you have to get a universal receiver, which is another downside, but for me I have an oldie anyway so it didn't matter.



The Flash2Pass can only be used off the headlight and uses a double click of the flash to pass button to trigger the opener, but it actually super easy to install and a lot cheaper than the MotoFX.  Another upside to the Flash2Pass is that you can cheaply ($35?) buy additional transmitters for the same receiver.

Another upside to Flash2Pass is that you can order them from places like motorcycle-superstore and even pick up the basic transmitter+receiver combo from Cycle Gear.

Having used both I have to say the Flash2Pass is the one I'd recommend.

Quote from: TobyDanger on May 11, 2009, 01:37:03 AM
Or just leave the 9v on with the remote.  You gotta find somewhere to hide the PCB anyway.  Sure, the battery might need to get replaced in a few years, but that annoyance is minor compared to messing with all the other electrical stuff (IMO).

TobyDanger got me thinking...and I agree. I got a small universal remote and soldered on a couple of leads running to momentary switch. I located the switch under the reservoir & tucked the circuit board under the seat. This works great and looks pretty good too. Plus, no messing with the bikes wiring.

Quote from: hihhs on June 07, 2009, 01:28:29 PM
TobyDanger got me thinking...and I agree. I got a small universal remote and soldered on a couple of leads running to momentary switch. I located the switch under the reservoir & tucked the circuit board under the seat. This works great and looks pretty good too. Plus, no messing with the bikes wiring.

tha is the cleanest install I have seen yet

I did something in between TobyDanger and Scoby2Duck in terms of the $3 red push button switch and the button location (the black tab between the Ignition and the Kill Switch). I then ran wires back to the garage door opener which I velcro'd under the seat and put a 10yr Lithium 9 Volt Battery in it. The key take away is to be careful drilling that hole for the pushbutton switch. I started with small drill bits and increased. It's just plastic so too much force and it seems like it would just break apart. I needed 1/2" for the switch but I only went up to 3/4" drill bit because after 3/4" I could tell 1/2" would've broken it into pieces for sure so I just used a file to increase the size of the hole till the switch fit.

Here's the materials I picked up at Radio Shack to do it:

IMG_2061 by ricknieto, on Flickr
IMG_2056 by ricknieto, on Flickr

Here's the Garage Door Opener circuit board. I left the original push button switch on it and just removed the top of it. Then I just soldered the wires to the back of the circuit board where the original switch was soldered.
IMG_2057 by ricknieto, on Flickr



Here's where I decided to put it after seeing the pics here. I just opened it up to make sure there was room. That black tab does come out easily but I put it back in and drilled through it while it was still on the bike. Be careful not to hit your handle bars underneath if you do this.

IMG_2058 by ricknieto, on Flickr

Here's the drill hole under the tab. I had the tab on during drilling then removed it to file it down and mount the button.

IMG_2062 by ricknieto, on Flickr

Here's the new switch button mounted on that tab after I filed the hole in the tab till it fit.

IMG_2063 by ricknieto, on Flickr

Here's the Garage Door Opener back in it's case velcro'd under the seat (which is where I relocated my frame stickers as well)
I used the Heat Shrink Tubes in various spots to cover the two wires and ran then back along the frame with the other wires that run along the Trellis frame.
IMG_2067 by ricknieto, on Flickr

Here's the final setup works like a charm. Took a little over 1 hour start to finish. Super easy! 

IMG_2064 by ricknieto, on Flickr

Quote from: Jarvicious on May 11, 2009, 08:55:37 PM
I was actually thinking about picking up one of these units.  The instruction manual is pretty concise and it looks really easy to use.  I did notice some problems with the potential pricing and the fact that they make a large amount of noise, even when not in use.

BMW F800S Garage Door Opener

I have the Blonde version. The special feature with this unit is that I do not have to press any button or switch. The advanced Blonde unit senses my Ducati (with Termis) in the driveway and automatically opens the door upon my arrival. 

Now seriously, I keep a remote switch in my pocket (one of three 2" by 1" generic units), but usually my wife or one of my daughters hears me and opens it. Only the thickest winter gloves/pants stops me being able to press the switch in my pocket while still on the bike if no one is home.

I just velcroed a small remote to the underside of my tank. Cost about $20 and took 2 minutes.

This mod totally made sense back when garage remotes were the size of a deck of cards.  These days the tiny little sucker fits right in my tank bag with no space lost.  I only use it when the blonde remote unit fails. 

The blonde units rock!