Got some more work done on my monster tonight! found a surprise too...







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Good thing i was already intent on replacing them. i have a nice set of japans finest taper bearings ready to go in!! 

OMG 

      Isnt it funny that my '97 900 had taper rollers in (I think) when I replaced them with a new set from SKF, many years ago, but at least mine had some grease in there.






                              Mmick

Yep, my old '97-'98 7fiddy had good grease loaded tapers in the wheels, and even the head stem bearings, although ball type were well packed with grease and didnt really need replacing but I did it anyway and used tapers!! 

But the later model DS had stuff all grease in both the wheel bearings and the head stem balls, and they were all knackered!! 

In fact I'd regard the fronts as having failed and the rears just about gone!! 

I showed the fella at the bearing service and he said that even the "Brand Name" bearing people and probably more to the point, "vehicle manufacturers, are succumbing to the need to look after the "bottom line" and are getting their bearings sourced from PRC (Peoples Republic of China) and they aint real good. 

You can still get the top of the range, good quality bearings but you have to stipulate what you want and of course pay the extra, but thats your call!! 

I know what I want and I WILL pay for what I regard as quality (And safety in this case!?) 

Anybody with a late model Duc should be having a good look at all the bearings on the bike and maybe replacing them with a good known quality bearing with adequate GREASE!! 

The garbage that Ducati are using, and the lack of grease is a worry!! 

Quote from: dragonworld on April 14, 2011, 07:56:58 PM
Anybody with a late model Duc should be having a good look at all the bearings on the bike and maybe replacing them with a good known quality bearing with adequate GREASE!! 

The garbage that Ducati are using, and the lack of grease is a worry!! 

Couldn't agree more. 

its been well known in dirt bike circles for many many years that when you buy a brand new bike the first thing you do is pull it apart and repack all the bearings

as they use SFA grease

even crap bearings wilol lasta  long time with a good packing of grease

My 4wd colorado at 30K specs a front hub regrease , the grease that was in there was rubbish , the bearings were decednt brand but had become warm and slightly discoloured from crap grease

THATS IT !

                 WE NEED A GREASE-A-THON!!!






                                     Mmick

oooohhh grease a thon hmmmmm naked 

can anyone please help here..

the Ducati maintenance manual shows a washer under the lower stem bearing seal. i obviously cannot recover mine due to the horrid state of that area... i am installing the before shown ima triples and thus not sure on the necessity of that washer, do u guys think that washer is vital?

i think you will find its a sealing washer as well as a spacer

fairly important imho

in saying that a good bearing supplier will prob be able to help there

thanx J5, im working a lot atm and dont have any time away during business hrs, so i was kinda hoping for a response like "nah man dont need it at all" to make me feel better about putting it together after hrs without.. haha

ill delay mt build and look around for a washer. 

Where did you get your new bearings from?  I couldn't get my washer off, but the speedymoto bearings I got come with their own little cup to seat them in... I'm hoping that is good enough because that is all I used when I replaced mine.

dmoto sent me mine.

i have the front end on the bike now! three minor issues thus far.
with the forks tightened in the lower triple, the top triple does not slide on or off freely. it appears that tightening the bottom triple makes both the forks move forward away from the stem but its less then a mm. i have to loosen the lower triples fork clamps and put a little rearward pressure the top of the forks to get the top triple on. I'm not sure if this is common but i dont see it being a problem with the forks operation.

second issue with the clamps/stem is the bearing fit. the size and thus tolerance of the lower and upper bearings sections on the triple tree stem itself is damn near the same. it was a task to get the lower bearing past the top bearings section. the on going issue this causes is when adjusting the tension on the stem nut. if i over tighten the bearings, i can loosen and even remove the stem nut and whole front end stays in place, it has no effect on releasing the steering resistance. i have to give the stem a coupla good taps to loosen the bearings and then re tighten it to the desired tension. again I'm not sure if this is common but i don't see it being a problem with the bikes daily operation.

The issue i think ill have to Address is with the brakes. i was test fitting the front wheel and brakes last night and i wouldn't call it a perfect fit... i think it would work as it is but i think its prob best for me to space the rotors with a washer or two to centre the disc in the rotor. check the photo and tell me your thoughts guys!!

NOTE: its not quite as bad as it looks, it appears i was a little to the right (fork side) when i took this pic


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Hey Roaduser

With the caliper disc clearance.
When you have the wheel back in place put the calipers back on with out the pads if it all clears and nothing touches leave it.
But looking at that pic if it dose touch put spacers/washers between the caliper  mounting bolts, rather than the disc to wheel spacers.

That sounds about right tightening up lower triple will affect alignment.
Adjust the steering head bearings before the top triple goes on.
Then put the top triple on.
Then Assemble the forks in top and lower triple, just nip the bolts to hold the forks in place,put the axle in, lock the axle up, then loosen the bolts to take out any misalignment and retighten   the triple clamps.
Loosen the axle it should rotate and slide out freely in the lower forks.
Replace wheel

thanx rob. the rotors did clear marginally but i rather things be closer to perfect if i can. and i meant space the calipers but typed rotor for some reason. for anyone readings future knowledge, regular m10 washers are 1.7-1.8mm which would have basically reversed the problem by pushing the calipers too far over, but stainless washers can be had at 1.1mm which made it damn near perfectly centered in this application


your instructions on forks assembly order are pretty much how i did it in the end. thank you.